Days 37 & 38

Before I start on these two days a bit of explanation regarding the gap in posting blog updates. Each day I try to write the text for the blog before going to sleep but require both good internet connection and time to post as the photo uploading is quite time consuming. Over the past couple of weeks I’ve put in a few really long days and also the connectivity has been pretty sporadic so have not been able to get updates posted.

I’m now having a day in National Park and am about five or six days ahead of my schedule so hoping to catch up with the blog today so be prepared for a deluge of postings!

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Day 37 (2 October)

Pahautea Hut to Camp in the bush (~27km)

Well that was harder than I expected!  Up quite early and left the hut about 7.30, knowing the descent down Pirongia would be pretty ugly and muddy.  The track the TA descends on I hadn’t been on before so really didn’t know what to expect. Initially I was pleasantly surprised as there was about a km of board walk and stairs along the ridge and then up to one of the peaks. I was quietly hoping the entire descent would be like this, all the while knowing it wouldn’t be. Sure enough after the peak and a lookout the trail deteriorated to more what is expected. That is ankle deep mud, tree roots, rocky climbs and descents and the odd fallen tree thrown in for luck. 

Initial walkway from the hut

Track up to the first peak

Track deteriorates to this

It was slow going but eventually I reached the road and had a quite enjoyable road walk for an hour or so. A lot of it was on gravel back roads and no traffic so you could walk along the crown of the road which is always nice. I do find road walking can be pretty tough on the back and hips as when your walking on the edge the camber is quite noticeable. Interestingly before I started the TA people talked about how tough walking on the slope of 90 mile beach was but actually I find the road camber/slope far more troublesome.  At one stage I did see what I believe is the ugliest cow of the TA so far! 

Current first place in the ugly cow competition!

When I started today wasn’t sure whether to stay with Jo and Tony who are trail angles on Kaimango Rd or continue on and camp in the bush. Jo and Tony get great reports on Guthook and it was quite tempting to stay with them but given I was having lunch at their gate at about noon it just felt decadent to stop so early. Also every km I knock off today is one less for tomorrow. 

The afternoon was about 10km of road, again really quiet, then about 5km of bush. The bush track was pretty well formed but very muddy and so the shoes that were almost dry were again wet and muddy.  One thing that was notable as I went through the bush and at time farmland was the number of feral goats. They are obviously a major issue here and actually didn’t seem overly concerned about my presence, letting me get very close before running off onto the bush. 

To go along with the ugly cow today I also came across a crazy sheep. It came running at me then proceeded to spiral in circles. Sort of the whirling dervish of the sheep world!

I filled with water at one of the streams crossing the trail and decided to camp on a small flat spot in the bush down quite low in the valley. Good choice in hindsight. 

My little campsite in the bush

No sooner had I pitched my tent and gotten the cuppa sorted than Tahlia appeared. She decided to go a bit further and camp up a bit higher (mistake, but more on that later) Just as I was getting sorted for an early dinner a guy, Theo,  appeared moving at pace. I told him there was another spot further up my clearing but he said he’d probably do another two hours or so today. Transpires he’s on day 21 of the TA, averaging about 40km per day!  His pack was like an oversized day pack and I still can’t understand how he stays warm and dry, feeds himself and survives with so little gear. Bloody super man if you ask me. But I’m sure he’s not smelling the roses or perhaps appreciating the people as I am moving a far more sedate 25km per day average.  Anyway Theo strode off onto the distance,  I expect that’s the last I’ll see of him.  Leisurely dinner and was in my bed by 6pm, amazing how early you can sleep when hiking all day.

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Day 38 (November 3 - US Election Day and Melbourne Cup Day)

Bush camp to Waitomo ( ~24km)

Well it rained most of the night and I could hear the wind in the treetops but as I was down low on the valley the wind was really hardly noticeable. What was noticeable, apart from the rain was the menagerie  of animals snuffling around my tent. Not sure what they all were but there was evidence of goats and possums (poo) just outside the fly and I’m assuming some rats probably joined the fun given I heard things in under the fly at times. 

Anyway I was all good zipped up inside! 

I can report the new sleeping bag/quilt is the real deal, warm and room to turn over so hopefully that’ll sort the gammy leg out. 

Despite sleeping for over ten hours I was a bit slow this morning, so not up, fed and packed until after seven. 

The morning was damp and very foggy with the overnight rain making the already muddy trail a real bog. 

Somewhere out there are some great views!

Today after leaving the bush the trail followed a farm fence line up and down over pretty rugged terrain. Not too difficult but cold and damp and hard to be enthusiastic when the great views you know are there are shrouded in fog.

On the way through the farm I came across a guy (Carl) on a quad bike with rifle attached who was obviously a goat culler. I’d heard them shooting during the night and stopped to have a chat to him. Really interesting he was actually a repurposed Air NZ 777 pilot who due to Covid was laid off. He actually seemed very happy with the change, seems the glamour life of pilot can be surpassed by the enjoyment of outdoors and shooting goats. 

Carl mentioned he thought they’d scared Tahlia off overnight as she was on a ridge they went through while shooting.  After catching up with her it seems a combination of shooting and wind/rain on the ridge forced her to move at about 3.00am. She apparently stumbled along in the fog for an hour or so and found a camp site near the quarry where she set up camp for a couple more hours sleep.  Interestingly in the dark she didn’t notice the dodgy looking house truck parked in the quarry otherwise I’m sure she would have move on further.

Late morning the fog started to clear and just as I was thinking things were looking on the up it started bucketing down, so now wet shoes and socks, wet pack and me totally drenched into the bargain. 

The trail then joined what is obviously a popular horse riding track but unfortunately the horses dig it up badly so it was wet and very slippery clay. Periodically the walking trail left the horse trail and enters the bush which was most pleasant being sheltered from the rain and dry and firm underfoot. 

Muddy horse trail

Leaving the bush it was a shortish road onto Waitomo. 

Waitomo that is, in normal times bustling with tour busses and visitors to the caves was essentially dead. The main cables were closed, apparently only opening. Few days a week now due to low demand. Another sad reminder of the effects of COVID. 

Waitomo Cavs, closed today!

I did intend to tent tonight but was so wet decided on a cabin at the holiday park. The lady said I’ll be one of three staying tonight, so obviously things are not busy here. 

One interesting thing that did occur (or at least I found it interesting, others might just find it a bit gross) was my toenail on my right foot that had been black for about three weeks fell off. I sort of expected that when this happened two things would occur, firstly the toe nail fairy (sort of equivalent to tooth fairy) waould call by and leave either $5 of preferably a can of IPA and secondly there would be another nail under the one that fell off. It seems I was wrong on both counts!

Gross but interesting, I’m sure a podiatrist would have some opinion here.