Days 131 to 138 - Te Anau to Invercargill
- john51648
- Mar 29, 2021
- 19 min read
Day 131 - March 19
Te Anau to Princhester Road (hitching) then Aparima Hut (23km)
I figured with only about 23km to hike into the hut and a short hitch back to the trail I could enjoy a cooked breakfast in Te Anau. Even managed to wrap half a jar of jalapeños for a long black at the cafe. Not a bad deal as I was going to bin them if the cafe hadn’t taken them as my plastic container only takes half a jar.
I wandered to the outskirts of Te Anau and was confronted with the days first problem, leaving Te Anau there are not a lot of places cars can pull over and from experience when hitching you do need to make it easy for the drivers. So walked a bit further and found a spot that while not perfect was ok, it also had the benefit of being near an intersection. So cars would be slow and I could make eye contact with the drivers, again something I’;be found seems to help.
Now the one thing I didn’t have today was the young blond! Sexist as it might seem it seems hitching is an inherently sexist pastime. Steph, either with me or her Dad or on her own seems to get rides almost instantly. In my case this morning I waited over an hour and half and probably a couple of hundred cars before getting a ride. I tried all sorts of tricks, taking off my hat to look more natural, looking like I was cold (it was bloody freezing), putting on my raincoat (it was drizzling a little), putting my pack on and sitting it beside the road but nothing seemed to work. A lot of drivers waved, god knows why, I initially I waved back but after a while I got sulky and just ignored the waves deluding myself that they might pick up on my feelings of rejection and turn around a come back to get me. I even tried stepping further out on the road but all anyone did was steer a wide path around me
Eventually a lovely couple (mother and daughter) picked me up and on telling them I was going to Prichester Road guessed I was a TA walker and proceeded to question me at length ab out the experience. The daughter (who was about my age) seemed really keen to do it and the mother couldn’t seem to get her mind around why anyone of sound mind would do such a thing!
Getting to Princhester Road they proceeded to turn into it head down, this being the first bot of the TA I’d missed in over 2800km. Before I could stop them they had traveled about 200m and, fortunately, pulled up behind Brian (the pilot) and Kelly's motorhome which was stopped while they chatted to some farm workers. I took this as a chance to exit and jumped out before in their generosity they took me any further.
So a small confession once completed I will have done every metre of the journey (except the hazard area, plus a few extra) except 200m in Princhester Road!! A bugger but one day when I’m in the area I’ll return and jog down there to complete it.
On disembarking my ride Brian suggested they could take my pack to the trail head which was anoth four km or so along the road. Given the journey is about me walking it and not my pack I availed myself of this concierge service and put the packing into the motorhome and proceeded to follow them on foot.
On arriving at the trail head Kelly had a cup of hot tea waiting for me which was fabulous after a somewhat frustrating morning.
I left on the trail with Guy (who was riding with Brian) and Brian and had a very enjoyable time ambling along and chatting to them about all manner of things. Both move a bit slower than me in the bush and, after an hour or so, I left them and a headed out alone towards the hut.
I then had what was the biggest fall of the TA so far (and hopefully until the end)! I was sidling along the side of a ridge when I turned around a large tree and on putting my right foot on the edge of the trail felt the ground give way. There was nothing I could do and I tumbled head over heels down about six or seven metres, fortunately stopping before I got to some rather dangerous looking rocks at the bottom of the ravine. Lying on the ground I tested everything and while pretty sore didn’t seem to have broken anything.
The next challenge was getting up without continuing to fall down and then climbing back up to where I’d started. Needless to say there was a fair b it of swearing and cursing while this happened bunt even Tully I got back to the track. An audit seemed to show I’d hurt my left shoulder (my good one so that was probably a blessing), my left ankle, my right hip and taken a bit of skin off my left arm and top of my head. Probably lucky not to have broken something so despite being pretty sore and feeling a bit sorry for myself I headed on reaching the summit of the mornings climb a little later.
Normally when hiking on my own I don’t stop for lunch, preferring to eats bars and scroggin as I go but today, still a bit shaken by the fall, I stopped and had made a cheese, chorizo and jalapeño wrap. Was a nice chance to regather myself before heading on.
After lunch a carried on and no sooner had I started than descending into a stream I slipped and slid on my arse down to the stream. Fortunately it was only a couple of metres and I stopped with my feet in the water so no harm done but did make me think I might be a bit clumsy today.
Just to cap off the day I then fell a third time, this time tripping over a branch and because at the time I was looking at the navigation app totally face planted into the undergrowth. Again no real damage except pride but bizarre that I can’t remember the last time I had a fall and today have managed three!!
The trail became muddy just before leaving the bush then became tussock and mud so by the time I reached the hut was pretty muddy. Interestingly most of the South Island has been relatively mud free, unlike the North, but now I’m entering Southland that appears to be changing.
On reaching the hut a Dutch couple (Kees and Elisa) were already there having wisely decided to get the early shuttle out of Te Anau and hence having started this section earlier.
Day 132 20 March
Aparima Hut to Telford’s Campsite (21km)
This section has a bit of complexity in it as the conditions for hikers to pass through Mt Linton Station are pretty strict and hence unless you are a very quick hiker it is necessary to start the Mt Linton part from Telfords camp. Hence unless I’m going to add a day to the section it is important I get to Telfords today.
Early starts are getting really hard now as it is dark here until about 7.30. Myself, Kees and Elise were up early and I was away a bit before 8.00, Brian and guy were only just rising as they are only planning on going to Lower Wairaki hut today so a much shorter journey.
Initially the trail was across muddy marsh but soon this moved into lovely thick forest. In the cold morning with a bit of mist around it really was magical.
The only issue with being first through was that the trail was cris crossed with new cobwebs, most it seemed at about my face level, walking through wishing was initially a bit disconcerting. Eventually, a bit like getting used to flies in the Australian outback, I became pretty unaware of them unless one went directly into my mouth.
Progress was slow but I have to say I really enjoyed the beauty and solitude.
Arriving at Lower Wairaki hut I stopped for a leisurely lunch in the hut, knowing Telford’s camp was only 9km ahead, albeit with a two Haka (600m) climb and descent.
On leaving the hut I noticed the DOC sign advising it was 8 hours to the campsite! By this time it was a little after 1.00pm so, if the sign was correct, I had a bit of a problem!! Even assuming I normally take about 3/4 of the stated DOC time I was going to arrive in the dark.
Anyway, I decided to carry on and see how it went. The climb to the top of the ridge was long and did take me nearly two hours but given this was nearly halfway to the camp gave me confidence that the DOC sign was based on a one legged octogenarian!
Coming down from the ridge actually took longer than I expected a it was steep, rocky and treacherous in places and having learnt my lesson falling yesterday I didn’t want to repeat it here where the consequences would have been significantly worse if not terminal.
Arriving at the camp site it was apparent it was not really a prepared camp, just a relatively flat area with a long drop and steam nearby.
The one thing that the camp did have in abundance was sandflies. Since the start of Richmond Ranges I don’t think there’s been as many sandflies in one place. This made for a pretty quiet evening as I cooked in the vestibule of my tent (without melting anything this time), ate in the tent and generally avoided going outside. Every time I did exit it seemed about a hundred sandflies took the opportunity to enter which caused another round of whack a fly as I killed them all as they landed on the mesh. By the time I was ready to sleep the floor of the tent resembled a sandfly graveyard!
Day 133 - 21 March
Telford’s Camp to Birchwood Station (30km)
Again a slept better in my tent than either a hut or real bed in town. If this carries on I might need to talk to Marie about down sizing and us living in a tent! Although that might get tiresome after a while with a wet retriever (Jackson) no doubt wanting to move in with us.
Up well before dawn, which is not difficult down here, and set a record of 40 minutes to have a cup of tea, eat some breakfast and break camp. So was away well before 8.00am for the first time in weeks.
Every day now I remind myself my pack is the heaviest it will be for the rest of the journey as I’m eating my way through supplies and this is the last section that requires food to be carried. I think somehow my general weariness is increasing at about the same rate my pack weight is diminishing so while the though is good I’m not really finding the pack easier to carry.
This is the day across Mt Linton Station. It seems the Mt Linton landholder does not actually want hikers crossing the land but has agreed to allow it perhaps due to social pressure or as a condition some previous consent or the like. What it doesn’t do is ensure hikers feel welcome, quite the opposite actually.
Initially the trail follows a farm track and while poorly marked it does seem to meander in generally the right direction. After a period though and looking at the maps it is apparent that while there are farm tracks that would allow easy passage through the station the required trail goes over a number of steep hills and makes little use of these tracks. It seems the owners have plotted a route that while fulfilling the requirements of allowing passage make it as frustrating and dificult as possible.
In one case a farm track followed a stream and hence was largely of little gradient, the required trail however climbed over 300m (a Haka) away from the stream only to drop back to the stream and track a couple of km later. Tempting as it was to just take the direct route the signs were threatening regarding the consequences of not following the poled route.
There were areas with large herds of cattle with the inevitable cow pats. Given my shoes already have a distinct smell from the mud I really didn’t want to add eau-de-cowshit to this so was pretty cautious negotiating my way through these areas. Managed to get through without incident.
Despite the general feeling of being unwelcome as I walked through Mt Linton it was interesting viewing one of the largest and iconic South Island stations up close. It does seem very well run with generally the land and stock in great condition. Notably however they do seem to be fighting a battle with thistles.
On leaving Mt Linton there was a short road walk to Birchwood Station who provide a hut for the use of TA walkers and is really the only accomodation option on the area.
Birchwood is the antithesis of Mt Linton. They really welcome TA walkers, providing the hut, allowing you to walk through the station on the main track to access the trail and even offering farm work on exchange for meals if you wish.
The hut at Birchwood was actually an old farm workers house. There was a large bunk room with ten bunks, a hot shower and gas cooking facilities.
I’d heard earlier that the “local” tavern will even run a shuttle out to pick you up, take you for dinner and return you to the hut. After talking to the farm managers wife and getting the details I rang and arranged for Kees, Elise and I to avail ourselves of this. An unexpected chance to avoid more dehydrated food but does mean my pack will remain the same weight tomorrow!
Turns out the tavern is actually over 20km away!
The Tavern was a real “southern man” experience. Sunday night and locals all in from a weekend hunting it would seem. Only two choices of beer, Speights or DB Brown, for the Aucklanders (not that you would admit to being and Aucklander in there) there was also Montieths cider. Food choice was pizza or burger!
I had the burger and while I think I can eat a lot due to the energy I’m getting through each day this burger was too much for me. Biggest burger I’ve encountered.
It really was a great experience, and nice to get out amongst people again.
Day 134 22 March
Birchwood Station to Merryview Hut (28km)
I seem to be getting quicker at packing of late, you’d think after 134 days I’d have reached the optimum and every day the pack up would be of similar time but today I managed to rise, have the obligatory cup of tea and bar, pack my pack and was out the door on only a little over half and hour. So quick in fact that I spent the first couple of hours wondering what I’d left behind or forgotten!
The trail passes through the flat section of Birchwood Statuon before embarking on a nearly two Haka (500m) climb through the station to a plantation forest. I stopped to chat to a top dressing truck driver at the bottom of the climb and he warned me it was “bloody tough” and he was so right. Largely because it was very steep and unrelenting by the time I reached the top my legs were burning and I was ready for a short rest. The views back over Birchwood and Mt Linton did ameliorate the pain and it was in pretty high spirits I entered the forest and followed the various tracks through.
After about 4km the trail left the forestry roads and became a basic tramping track through native beech. It is interesting how a couple of weeks ago I was getting a bit over the ubiquitous South Island beech forests but a few days without and its bloody nice to back into it.
The trail through the beech was generally pretty good, although the dreaded Southland mud is starting to makes its presence known and there were a few patches where avoiding it was impossible. So mental note for tomorrow, “must do shoes up tighter”, as it’s only a matter of time until I lose one on the mud.
Coming out of the forest and reentering a plantation forest I encountered a hunter having a cuppa at the back of his 4wd. Transpires he’s the owner of the Merryview hut out for a quick morning hunt while his wife is in Auckland. He’d built the hut a few years ago, on the edge of the family farm, after noticing the number of TA walkers passing by. Yet another example of how generous people are in supporting this little community of nomads that is the TA.
There remained one little bit of bush and a short road walk between me and the Merryview Hut.
It actually came out sunny as I was getting to the bush section so got my sunglasses out for the first time in a while. Once in the bush I put them on the peak of my cap and carried on merrily, big mistake!
On exiting the bush went to put glasses back on and they weren’t there. Initially though I might have put them away or perhaps even have them on, but alas no such luck. They must have brushed against some shrubbery and fallen off. The really unfortunate part being they were prescription and owed me a substantial amount. I considered, for about three seconds, going back to look for them but decided an insurance claim was a better option.
Arriving at Merryview Hut the hut it was a lovely sunny afternoon and I was able to sit and chill reading my book and doing what comes naturally on the TA, eating!!
Kees and Elise arrived an hour or so later and unbelievably Elise had seen my sunglasses lying beside the trail and had picked them up.
So I’m feeling pretty lucky as had assumed they were gone for good.
Days 135 - 23 March
Merryview Hut to Martin’s Hut (28km)
Woke to a wet foggy morning for what is the last big day in the bush/backcountry on the TA. This section is also the notorious Longwood Forest which has a reputation as being the South Islands answer to the Raetea Forest on Northland in the mud stakes.
Initially the trail followed a 4wd track obviously used by hunters as this is a very popular hunting area. Being the start of the roar the trail notes do recommend hikers wear fluro vests to ensure hunters can identify them. Like most hikers however I don’t own such a thing so can only rely on any hunters be observant enough to tell the difference between a wet muddy hiker and a deer!
Once the 4wd drive track finished and the trail entered the beech forest it can be best summarised as mud, mud and more mud!!
Initially I attempted to find paths around the worst of the mud but quickly concluded I was going to end the day wet and muddy so I may as well just plow through. Obviously careful to avoid the patches where you sank to above the knees as once in these it was really hard work getting out without leaving a shoe.
The forest was broken by areas of tussock which was no less muddy.
The whole time it was also misty, raining and blowing quite strongly. Out of the bush visibility was pretty limited and with the path through the tussock areas not particularly well marked I needed to be careful not to stray too far off trail.
Arriving at the Bald Hill summit (where there was a major radio antenna/mast) there was a short reprieve as the trail joined a gravel access road for about three km.
At a disused quarry, which was obviously the hangout of the local boy racers, I stoped for a quick lunch and then back onto the bush for more mud.
This weather had continued to deteriorate and this section was actually very wet and cold with visibility in places very limited. Again it took real care not to blunder off the trail and find yourself trudging through deep mud trying to find the trail again.
Despite only being about eight km to the hut it took me over four hours, and that was going at what felt like a good pace. This shows just how hard a going it was both navigating in the mist and getting through the deep mud.
I did at one stage manage to walk into a tree with my head while looking at how to navigate a rather deep patch of mud. Saw stars and managed to remove another patch of skin, unfortunately having little hair I do seem to get a fair share of knocks and cuts to by head on the bush. This one was however a bit more severe than the usual.
Arriving at Martin’s hut I realised the days trials were not over. The hut was surrounded by mud.
Martin’s hut is one of the older huts on the TA, built in about 1905, and it would appear having had precious little maintenance since!
Unfortunately it has only a 200l barrel adapted to collect water from one side of the roof. Looking into this I realised it had only about 20l of water on it so I would need to be very careful about water usage to ensure I didn’t use it all and leave none for people following.
As a consequence of this water shortage, despite it continuing to rain, I was only able to do a cursory wash of the mud from my legs and in the end just put my merino long-johns on over it assuming I could give them a good wash once back in civilisation.
The hut itself was full of holes and really more of a shelter/bivvy than a hut. About a third of the floor was dirt and the balance was wet and muddy so no escaping it. It also smelt strongly of mouse/rat so I was going to have to be careful about having all good tonight.
Elise and Kees arrived an hour or so later and it is fair to say Elise was totally over it. Not that I blame her.
So a quick meal and in sleeping bags by 6.30pm as there was nothing you could do that didn’t involve getting wet or muddy.
Day 136 - 24 March
Martin’s Hut to Colac Bay (16km)
Woke and realised with some sadness that today is the last day in the bush of the TA.
It had rained all night but appeared to be clearing a bit as I packed up and had breakfast (the usual bar and cup of tea).
As this is a shortish day today and probably due to wanting to make the bush last a bit I was pretty slow packing and don’t leave the hut until after 8.30am. It is worth noting that it isn’t getting light down here now until nearly 8.00.
The bush section of today which was about 11km can best be described as mud followed by mud.
It really was beautiful bush though and knowing that this was the last of the Southland bush made me enjoy and appreciate it for its beauty.
The trail joins the Port Water Race about 9km which was fascinating. Chinese gold prospectors dig these water races in the late 1800s, using the water to sluice the hillsides and wash gravels down to sluice boxes where the gold was separated. These water races run for tens of kms through the thick bush (we only follow a very small section of it) and were all dig by hand, just demonstrating the determination of the early Chinese miners in their quest for gold.
Just before exiting the bush there was a stream that allowed me to get in about knee deep and have a good wash to remove at least the worst of the mud. If it had of been warmer I might have been tempted to strip off and have a decent wash but, frankly, it was still freezing cold.
Leaving the bush I was able to catch a glimpse of the ocean for the first time in many weeks. This really brought home the fact that the journey was rapidly coming to an end!
The walk to Colac Bay was along a relatively major road so immediately it became apparent I was getting back to civilisation!
Colac Bay Tavern and Camp is one of the iconic stops on the TA. It really is like stepping back in time. A comfy Southland Pub with a hot fire and serving either pizzas or burgers it would seem. The holiday park is attached to the tavern and I got a cabin for the night so a nice chance to do a deep clean of both myself and my clothing.
Day 137 -March 25
Colac Bay to Riverton (13km)
A really short day today but with the next day being long there is really no way to avoid this. Anyway, I’m not going to feel too guilty having a half day!
I took my time packing up and headed out about 8.30ish again. The weather has pretty much cleared so while it remains cloudy it is not raining and now down near the coast temperatures seem far warmer.
Leaving the camp/tavern I made the first navigational blunder of the day by heading the wrong way. Luckily when the beach didn’t appear in sight after a couple of hundred metres I checked my map and sure enough I was headed away from it. So a quick u-turns and got headed the correct way.
Following the beach for awhile the trail then turns slightly inland and crosses farmland over undulating headlands before turning into a very short section of bush.
Trail markings were pretty sporadic and generally it was ok to just be heading the correct direction by following the coast.
Unfortunately navigational blunder two of the day occurred where the trail turned away from the coast and climbed a hill into the bush. I didn’t notice any markers and carried on across farmland with the ocean on my left and bush to my right of another 500m or so.
Consulting my map I realised the error of my ways, it did look however as if I could bush bash my way up the hill above me and get onto the correct track without having to go back to the start. This was both a good and a bad decision. Bad because as I got into the bush it got thicker and was riddled with gorse and blackberry, hence I got pretty scratched up. Good because the blackberries were ripe and none had been foolish enough to go here so I could gorge myself on them!
Finally arriving at the track it was about a km and a steady climb until it emerged in a carpark and the adjoining road ran downhill to Riverton.
Staying at the Riverton camp ground was a revelation. The cabin was small but great, the common room that I assume is an old school hall was amazing. Filled with all manner of toys, games and furniture with an enormous open fire.
After getting a bit sorted and having a hot shower I headed down into the township (a further couple of km on) and was again impressed. A really lovely little place, interesting art and bric-á-brac shops and for me a great cafe for lunch!
Took a pie, seafood salad and beer back to the camp for dinner as I want an early night. My plan tomorrow is to leave before 5.00am to ensure the beach walk to Invercargill is during low tide.
Day 138 - March 26
Riverton to Invercargill (36km)
I was up about 4.30 and out onto the darkness a bit before 5.00am. A nice fine morning initially which was good as there was rain forecast.
Leaving Riverton in the dark was a bit of a challenge as once I got near the estuary there was a bit of fog and the trail was just not obvious. I did blunder around in the trees between the estuary and beach for a while but eventually got onto the beach and it was then straight down the coast for 25km to the edge of Invercargill.
It did start raining about 6.30 or so but the sunrise was spectacular.
Really nothing of interest on the beach. This is the beach where Burt Munro tested his bike(s) and it is obviously continues to be used by boy racers as evidenced by large areas of tire marks.
I arrived on Invercargill a bit after lunch , having walked non stop so was well ready for lunch.
What is interesting as I draw towards the end of the TA is how both mental and physical stamina have changed. When I started, all those months ago, I could walk,perhaps, four hours before needing a short break. Often this was not due to physically needing it but mentally finding I just need to stop and gather myself. Now I can walk eight or more hours without stopping and feel as good as gold. Largely I think my mental resilience has improved
My plan now is to have a layday in Invercargill tomorrow then walk out to Bluff township on Sunday, returning to Invercargill by shuttle. I will the shuttle back to Bluff on Monday and do the last eight km section over the Bluff hill and on to the southern terminus arriving on time to meet Marie when she gets there.
I am getting very excited about the prospect of being reunited with Marie at Bluff. While it has been a fabulous adventure I do think I’m ready to go home now!
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