Days 128 to 130 - Queenstown to Te Anau

Day 128 - 16 March

Queenstown to Greenstone to Taipo Hut (22km)

Well after a couple of days off in Queenstown its time to hit the trail again. During the time in Queenstown I resupplied for the next section and also caught up on this blog, all this fitted around watching the Americas Cup each afternoon. Unfortunately due to Team NZ not winning every race and lack of wind the series has not been decided so I’ll need to keep up with it via messages on the Garmin. While in Queenstown the weather has been pretty wet and miserable so I’m hoping it will clear now for this next section, Greenstone/Mavora Walkway. Lake Wakatipu is another of the “hazard zones” of the TA, meaning hikers are encouraged (or obligated due to logistics and/or safety) to use some form of transport to cross this. The starting point of the section is Greenstone and there are twice daily shuttles that will drop hikers off there from either Glenorchy or Queenstown. My original plan was to take four days for this section, it is about 92km. After discussing it with Steph and her relaying that Dave (her Dad) said it was almost a Great Walk standard trail I decided it was not impractical to do it in three long days. Steph was on board for this, in fact I think it was her idea originally, as she wanted to get back to Queenstown later in the week to meet friends so needed to do it in the three days. Tuesday morning and an early breakfast (pastry and coffee) at Fergs Bakery (another of the “Ferg” Queenstown icons). Again it is noticeable the TA wallets Steph and I make ourselves at home on the seats in the Ferg Bar next door while all then other hikers waiting for shuttles huddle under the shop eves out of the rain. One of the things the TA teaches you is to fend for yourself. Into the shuttle for the ride to Glenorchy and on to Greenstone. Except for Steph and I, all the shuttle passengers were hikers going to do either the Dart Rees track or the Routeburn Great Walk. As is usual, in these situations they were interested in what we’re up to and why. Despite being over 2600km into the TA I still don’t have a good answer to the why question.

Looking down Lake Wakatipu from the Glenorchy road

After changing shuttles at Glenorchy and dropping off the Dart Rees walkers we arrived in Greenstone a little after 10.00am. Keen to get away we were a little delayed b y the overly exuberant, but lovely, shuttle driver who wanted to take our photo and chat while he waited for his people to come out of the trail for then ride back. The track at the start of the trail was as promised, wide well formed and generally easy going. This got us thinking the Great Walk analogy might be correct and we could make it to Boundary Hut today. This would set us up well to get through in the desired three days.

Great track at this stage!

After about five or so km the track started to decline in standard and before long it was the basic tramping track we’re so used to. The only concession being until the Greenstone hut the streams and rivers were all crossed by bridges.

Stopping at Greenstone Hut for lunch, we met up again with Brent and Helen who had gotten a ride to the trail head with friends. Also another young TA walker, Agnes, who was taking her time and planning on staying there.

After lunch we carried on at pace but as the track continued to deteriorate and we entered an area of muddy tussock and bog it became apparent we would only get as far as Taipo Hut today. This was only about 22km from the trail head so left us with a big couple of days ahead to achieve the three day target. I must admit at this stage I was beginning to think three days might be a big ask and, frankly, was not overly concerned as I had enough food for about a week (having purchased food in Queenstown for both this and part of the next section). Steph on the other hand was becoming quite concerned given her commitment to meet friends in QT. The Taipo Hut was lovely and a really nice chance to spend a night with Brent and Helen who I’d met a few times both on trail and in huts but not had a chance to get to know.

---

Day 129 - 17 March Taipo Hut to Camp after Mavora South Lake (34km) Setting out this morning the intention was to get as far as possible and camp either beside Mavora Lake (turns out there’s two Mavora Lakes, North and South) or on farmland past there. Leaving Taipo Hut the first 12km of trail continued to be swampy and muddy, compounding this it was a bit poorly marked so a few zig zags added to the experience. There was a bridge across the first stream/river which was nice but a bit irrelevant given my shoe and socks were wet from yesterda!

We arrived at the junction to Boundary Hut about lunchtime so stopped beside the trail for a quick lunch. After this the trail joined a 4wd track that ran right through to Mavora Lakes and eventually joined the road. It was noticeable how once on the 4wd track many areas beside it were badly cut up due to the 4wd community attempting to get their vehicles up, or down, increasingly steep hills. The hunters had also joined in with most signed and marker posts either displaying bullet holes or, in many cases, having been hit so many times they were cut through. Obviously there are not enough deer or goats around here to keep the boys (and presumably girls) occupied!

While walking along the track we can across the true southern family heading the other way in their ATV. Couple, both dressed head to foot in camo gear with a dog and baby asleep in a seat tied into then middle. They were going for a fish but also said they’d been scanning the hills in the hope of deer or goats. Seems they spend a bit of time in then area and the baby has developed the ability to sleep while they rock and roll over the rough terrain . The next ATV we encountered was a bit perplexing. An elderly couple, I’d guess 70’s, who were out trimming the matagouri back from the 4wd track. They said they’d been doing it for a couple of days and based on what we saw they’d done, perhaps, 2 or 3km so not fast progress. He had a chainsaw and her secateurs. Now what was perplexing is this far out 4 wheel drivers don’t care about the matagouri, they just plow on through it and from what I’d seen on tracks through the South Island this does a good job of keeping it back. One possibility was that Porsche, Audi or Range-rover had foolishly planned a run out here only to realise it would scratch the paint and decided to tame it. The other, more likely, explanation is the local council had some money left in a budget and decided to spend it on this ill-advised effort. Regardless, it was noticeable that while they were clearing in the areas where it was easily accessible. This meant anywhere there were deep muddy patches the matagouri continued to invade then track untouched. Upon reaching the top end of North Mavora Lake we started to encounter a few people as this area is obviously popular with campers, day hikers and cyclists. The lake was spectacular stretching out in front, although bigger than I’d expected.

There is a DOC freedom camping campsite at the southern end of the lake, extending to the northern end of the south lake. This campsite is about 4km long, suggesting it is popular during the warmer months. Reaching the southern end of South Mavora Lake in the late afternoon, it was necessary to make a decision on whether to camp there or hope there was somewhere suitable a bit further on once we left the conservation reserve and entered farmland. While Steph and I were discussing this at the entry to the reserve a motorhome arrived so I asked if they had seen any flat sheltered areas on the way in. Unfortunately they didn’t seem to grasp the concept of stealth camping and were a bit put out that we’d consider pitching tents in a random field. By this time the official camp was behind us and in fact there was a large sign advising there seas no camping in the area. So after crossing the swing bridge to the other side of the river exiting the lake there was a small flat area just big enough to get the two tents up on. Close to the lake for water and asking and far enough from the road that it was unlikely we’d be noticed this late in the day.

By stopping here tomorrow it will be about 37km out to the road, so a long but pretty achievable day.

---

Day 130 - 18 March Camp at South Mavora to Te Anau (37km walking plus hitch to Te Anau) Really not a lot to report from today. The walk was along a gravel road and after about 3km and leaving the wooded area it was amongst farmland.

Dawn over Mavora Lake

There were a number of shuttles with trailers taking cyclists in to the Round the Mountains circuit. Interestingly, the cyclists didn’t seem to pass us on the road so I can on my assume they go the other direction or are very slow.

Seemingly endless road to walk!

Reaching the main road mid afternoon I got a lesson on hitchhiking in female company. No sooner had we dropped our packs and the first car stopped and picked us up. Not only that but the lady driver really didn’t have room for us as she had a car full of groceries and was on the school run. Nevertheless she then went out of her way to drop us off right at the door of the Te Anau YHA. I’m spending the night in Te Anau to resupply for the final backcountry sec room, through to Riverton/Invercargill. Steph meanwhile is returning to Queenstown, so after first meeting in Richmond Ranges and, with only a few days exception, having hiked together until here this is the end of the road and we’ll go our separate ways. It really has been great getting to know both Steph and her dad, Dave, over this time and I’m sure we’ll keep in touch once we’ve all returned to our respective “normal” lives. Resupply in Te Anau turned into a bit of an excercise as I initially went to the Four-Square, which , frankly, was hopeless so only got about half of what I needed (and notably no gummy bears or jalapeños) so traipsed to the other end of town to Fresh Choice for the balance. In the process I omitted to keep track of what I’d bought so by the time I got back to the YHA actually had food for about a week when I really only needed four or five days! Now a tip for anyone visiting Te Anau, the pizza place on the Main street is the bomb!! I had a venison pizza there and having had numerous pizzas (pretty much every town on the TA!) I have to say this was probably the best. Te Anau is currently pretty sad, a bit like Tekapo, it would seem it was largely reliant on tour busses passing through and hence with COVID seems to have suffered pretty badly. A lot of empty premises and a somewhat deserted feel about it.