Days 118 - 121 Ohau to Wanaka
- john51648
- Mar 15, 2021
- 10 min read
Day 118 - 6th March
Ohau to stealth camp in pine plantation (24km)
Staying at the Ohau Lodge included breakfast so being keen to get away I was amongst the first in there dining room (along with Steph and McVet). Tempted by the muesli and rhubarb I had a large bowl of this before realising there was a cooked option on offer also. Unfortunately, being a TA hiker wit an insatiable appetite I took the cooked option as well, something I paid the price for all morning, a I was lethargic and a bit low on energy, I’m sure due to having too much food on board.
Leaving the lodge the trail shared the Alps to Ocean route for about 3km. Along the way Steph and I were passed by McVet on his Ebike as he merrily made his way to Omarama (we’ll see him next in Wanaka). Leaving the Alps to Ocean route the trail reverted to a strandard tramping trail with the ubiquitous orange triangles marking the route. This now climbed steadily upwards for nearly three Hakas (about 900m). Initially we were in the bush which was lovely as lately so much of the terrain has been in open exposed areas and/or above the bush line.
As we neared the summit we caught Guy, who had left the lodge very early and walked with him for a while. He decided to stop for lunch at the summit, so Steph and went on for another half hour or so before lunch.
Interesting hiking with Steph and some of the others down here in the South Island that I have now adopted a routine of stopping each day for lunch. In the North Island, perhaps because I was on my own for so much of it, I rarely stopped for lunch. Generally I got through the day on a few fistfuls of trail mix and a couple of bars before repowering the engine in the evening.
Descending the trail followed the Ahuriri East River, which while far less significant than its big cousin, the Ahuriri River, did still keep us on our toes crossing it multiple times as with the rain yesterday it’s was flowing strongly.
As we got to bottom of the valley there were areas where the trail was overrun with thousands/millions of small black caterpillars Not sure what moth/butterfly they will emerge as but whatever one it is clearly not endangered!
After lunch, and with Guy having caught up as we enjoyed the afternoon sun we carried on down until reaching a pine plantation just short of the Ahuriri River. Given the likely high after levels in the Ahuriri and the advice it was not to be trifled with we decided not to even go and have a look but to turn towards the south and start heading to a bridge that was located about 7km away. This would add about 12km to the section but, given the alternative of washing downstream and perhaps seeing McVet as we passed through Omarama, was a pretty attractive option.
Reaching the pine plantation we scaled a barbed wire fence (no doubt serving the dual purpose of keeping stock in and TA walkers out) and with rain starting decided to camp under the pines. We went far enough in to the pines to be out of view of a farmhouse located on a ridge overlooking the plantation so hopefully will remain undetected!
After setting up camp in drizzly rain I retired to my tent, having a cup of soup and reading until it was time for dinner. The whole time thinking I’ve made a mistake here and should have carried on for another hour or so to make tomorrow a bit shorter. Talking to Steph the next day, it seems she was sitting in her tent having exactly the same thoughts. The problem with collective decision making is sometimes you convince each other of something that is actually not what either wants!
Anyway a nice quiet evening in the tent and this time without wind I did manage to get my dinner and drinks cooked/heated without melting any more of them tent. I did however notice a couple of, previously undetected holes melted in the mesh so will need to do a bit more tent repair before I get much older.
Being under the pines, despite the night being quite cold, the frost didn’t settle on us so not a bad night at all.
Day 119 7th March
Camp in pines to Top Timaru Hut (33km)
Today after breaking camp we needed to proceed through farmland and a rough farm track to the bridge over the Ahuriri River. This was about 7km and a bit looking across the river knowing we would be headed back up once over the bridge. After getting up close to the river however, the decision not to cross was clearly the correct one, while not overly wide the river was flowing very fast and appeared pretty deep towards the centre.
Once over the bridge it was a trudge along the road back to the trail head on the western side of the Ahuriri River. Confirming my misgivings about stopping too early yesterday we passed a large empty barn about fifty metres from the road that would have made the perfect place for a stealth camp, out of the elements with the river close for water. Anyway, we made the decision yesterday and now had to live with it, just a long day today.
As we drew close to where the trail left the road there was a motor-home in sight. On arriving at the trail head it transpired it was Kelly Haybittle. Kelly’s husband Brian, a furloughed Air NZ 777 pilot, is doing the TA and being supported by Kelly who follows him in their motor home. Those who read my NI blog may remember I had dinner with them in Paekakariki.
Anyway, it seems Brian and four others had ridden in within Kelly and had started this section an hour or so before we arrived.
Kelly offered us coffee and who could sat no to such a treat in the middle of nowhere. Also here enjoying Kelly’s hospitality were Seth, Elena and Paul who had left Ohau after us but had gone past (without seeing us)when we were camped in the pines.
The hut we’re heading for has six bunks and we now know there are at least 11 headed there. So looks like it’ll be camping again tonight.
The trail from the trail head climbed gently until reaching a private hut which made a nice stop for lunch. Unbeknown to us when we reached the hut Brian had seen us as he climbed he hill ahead and, determined to get a bed for the night, but knowing he was a bit slower than most of us on then trail had put on a spurt of speed to get ahead.
After a leisurely lunch and drying tents out we headed out with Steph and I leading. The trail climbed steeply (about 2.5 Hakas) to Martha saddle then dropped a similar amount to Top Timaru Hut.
It was noticeable how the Timaru River, that we followed from the saddle, was very silty and cloudy. This was obviously due to recent slips and did make crossing it challenging as while it was not deep or particularly fast moving you could not see the bottom.
Arriving at the hut here was one spare bunk which Steph took. If I’m honest I’d far prefer to tent than be in a full hut, although tonight would test this.
There was very little flat space around the hut suitable for tenting but I did manage to get a spot that was relatively flat so hopefully won’t spend the night constantly pushing myself back uphill!
Finally after having followed Brian down the SI and not having seen him since Paekakariki I had caught up with him. His infectious enthusiasm for the TA has made him a bit of a legend in this years cohort, perhaps also helped by Kelly’s hospitality in the motor home!
Day 120 8th March
Top Timaru Hut to Pakituhi Hut (24km)
Today is a bit of a strange one with the first hut a bit too close to stop at and the second a hard grind to reach. Last night fuelled by enthusiasm Steph and I discussed getting all the way to Lake Hawea today but reality kicked in and we decided getting to Pakituhi would be a good effort.
The night camping as bloody cold. Icicles forming inside my tent and when I got up in the morning about 3mm of ice on the outside of the tent. Needless to say I did wonder if then floor of the hut might have been a better option!
It took me a while to pack up as it was so cold tasks that required dexterity in my fingers were all but impossible.
Steph and I did manage to be the first away (in fact as we were leaving some were only then awakening) and headed off into a gloomy cold morning.
The trail from Top Timaru follows the river down, a “Nepalese downhill”, that is on average down but with plenty of up in it to ensure it is hard work.
The river remains silty and there were numerous river crossings as we descended. There is a flood track that runs high above the river but we decided the river was the lesser of the two evils.
In some places the trail sidled along sheer faces above the river, as usual requiring real care as a wrong step could well end in tears or worse.
We had anticipated reaching the junction to Stody’s Hut about mid morning but going was slower than we expected and it was getting on towards noon before we got there. This as about 1km from where we had started four hours ago so gives some idea of the dificult terrain.
From then junction the trail climbs steeply to Stody’s hut. This climb is about two Hakas (600m) up which in the context of what we’re doing is not overly notable. What sets it aside is how steep it is. This climb is in less than 2km including a short flat of a few hundred metres in the middle.
Both Steph and I agreed it was one of the most taxing climbs of the TA especially given the morning it followed.
A well earned lunch at Stody’s Hut. I am glad we were pressing on from here as while then hut had a certain rustic charm it was pretty manky.
After lunch the trail continued to climb, this time less steeply b it for another two or so Hakas until we reached Pakituhi Hut.
The views from this trail were magnificent. As I’ve proceeded down the South Island the views continue to astound me. The scenery is so all encompassing and big and continually varying. I do feel so privileged to be able to immerse myself in this for such a period of time. I’m sure many people get to see these views for fleeting periods either on short hikes or tours or even in some cases from roads and towns. What sets this experience apart for me is I get to look at it all day every day.
Arriving at Pakituhi Hut there was another hiker there who it transpired was a local on a day trip up to the hut. Sometime after our arrival Brent, Helen and Paul arrived so a few of us but not all all crowded in a new eight bunk hut.
Another hearing faux pas, I spent the night calling Brent Grant until he must of tired of this and corrected Med. I am certainly leaving a trail of misheard names behind me on the journey.
Day 121 9th March
Pakituhi Hut to Wanaka (37km)
This promises to be another big day!
With the lure of coffee and cafe food at Lake Hawea, Steph and I were up early and away by about 7.30am.
The trail climbs from the hut to the ridge then drops steeply down to Lake Hawea. This descent is about 3 Hakas (1000m) and over a really exposed rocky ridge, so not to be trifled with.
The descent to the lakefront took about two hours and by the time I reached there my knees were screaming. It is interesting how despite having sore knees almost every day they have generally survived the TA to date. They got terribly sore going down but then settle on the flat or uphill. It may also be helped by my morning dose of vitamin I (Ibuprofen) and generous use of Voltaren gel on knees, shins, calves and ankles!
The walk from lakefront to Hawea town was uneventful, essentially a gravel road followed by a lakefront path.
After coffee, sausage roll and a muffin we departed the cafe, Steph hitching into Wanaka and me, ever the purist, walking the twentyish km.
The walk took a little over four hours but was both varied and interesting with few hills so time passed quickly.
I checked into the YHA for a couple of nights. Despite not really needing a zero day I’m now managing my progress to arrive in Bluff the day Marie is getting there to meet me. Consequently while I’ll continue to push through the backcountry sections I will have a bit of time on towns on the way for the next couple of weeks.
After the usual domestic chores of sorting pack and resupply list and washing cloths I met McVet (he’d come to Wanaka by bus after the bike ride to Omarama) and Steph for a beer and very enjoyable meal. The last meal with Chris on this journey.
I am starting to run into a few gear failure/wear and tear issues. My trusty hiking shirt that I’ve worn every day since Cape Reinga (nearly 2600km) has finally given up the ghost. It had a couple of tears that I’d sewn up but now has just worn so thin in the shoulders and back that it is disintegrating. I was hoping it would get to Bluff but alas it looks like it will be a passenger for the rest of the journey. The fact that I’m getting charging and callouses on my shoulders are a message that a new shirt is in order.
Likewise I’ve again worn out a pair of shoes. As with the previous ones it is the sides at the front that wear through and as usual mostly the right on as this leg/foot does most of the work with my slightly gammy left leg just along for the ride! Interestingly this pair of shoes has lasted almost exactly 600km which is the same as all the previous pairs and again equates to about 50c perks. Marie has posted another pair of shoes to Queenstown so I just need to nurse these ones through!
A day off in Wanaka tomorrow so no blog.
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