Palmerston North to Makahika (Days 66 - 68)
- john51648
- Jan 21, 2021
- 8 min read
Day 66 (1 December)
Palmerston North to Whare O Moturimu shelter (36km)
Expecting the weather might have cleared for my departure from Palmerston but alas in the thirty something years since we lived here nothing’s changed, wet and windy, just as I remember it!
Largely a road walk today with a couple of shortish bits of bush on well formed tracks.
Leaving Palmerston did bring back a lot of memories as the route initially followed the route I would bike during my time working for Dairy Research at Massey. Much like then it was wet and windy and I looked with envy at the people in cars, who appeared to be warm and dry.
One thing of note is I’ve resupplied in Palmerston North for the entire section to the end of the Tararuas, that is, seven days food and gas (allowing for an extra day due to possible bad weather). Consequently my pack as I started out was probably the heaviest it had been on the journey to date. It will be interesting to see how this pack goes with the extra weight as it’s not really suited to anything more that 14 or so kg and while I haven’t weighed it I suspect it is probably 18+ today.
At one point, on a short section of bush, a couple of very small ducklings started walking ahead of me. I tried to coax them off the track as thought they were getting a fair way away from their family, which presumably was somewhere around where they joined me, but they continued to scurry on ahead for a km or so. Then things took a more ominous turn when a morepork (New Zealand native owl for those of you overseas) swooped in. Focused on a duckling for lunch it had not seen me and it was only at the last second it became aware of my presence. Instead of a grab and run it landed between me and the ducklings alternating looks between the ducklings (lunch) and me (a threat) as I continued to walk towards it. Finally it decided to retreat and flew off into the trees. The ducklings likewise must have become aware of the threat and scurried off into the undergrowth. I'm sure once I'd gone past this will have continued to play out.
The Morepork incident. Note the Kereru who stumbled in to it! Probably the best news of the day is for the first time in more than 1000km my left leg is pain free. A bit of a niggle starting in the right but nothing compared to the pain I’ve had at time’s in the left. Perhaps at some stage soon I’ll have a pain free day where both legs and feet are ok!
Late morning I got the Kahuterawa Reserve and for some reason feeling a bit jaded decided to stop and have a hot chocolate. Amazing the difference this made, I left feeling reinvigorated and started to think once I got to Whare O Moturimu I might carry on a bit and shorten the next day.
The trail then entered a mountain bike park and meandered through a long loop up a hill, after walking mainly on road all morning it was good to be off the road and into bush.
At the top of the hill was the official Te Araroa halfway marker. This is not exactly halfway as each year the trail varies a little and distances change but is accepted as the symbolic halfway mark. I sat for a while just taking it in with the realisation I'd managed to walk 1500km and was now halfway to my goal of Bluff. It was quite an emotional moment and I actually became a bit overwhelmed, I think tiredness and the realisation that I had actually made it this far just became a bit much. Took the obligatory selfies and onwards I went towards Bluff now with a new spring in my step.
After leaving the park the trail was back on to country roads with the wind building to a full on gale. At times I was having to stop to avoid being blown sideways in the gusts. There was also one moment where an ominous cracking sound occurred while I was walking through a stand of eucalypts. Due to my only hearing from one ear I have no ability to tell the direction of sound so after looking around decided there was nothing I could do but walk on hoping that whatever was falling didn’t fall on me. Given I’m writing this, obviously I didn’t get hit by a falling branch or tree.
One thing that was notable, is obviously the locals have guns but there must be a scarcity of wildlife to shoot as pretty much every sign was badly shot up, seemed with a mix of shotguns and large bore rifles.
On arriving at the shelter I had it to myself and thought that might have been the case for the night. While that might have entailed doing the Tararuas alone it was also not unwelcome as there is something quite about the solitude.
The shelter for tonight (Whare O Moturimu) is relatively new and was built by the Palmerston North City Council specifically for TA walkers. It is built in the style of a traditional Whare with a communal sleeping platform and, unfortunately, no door. This was one of the nicer shelters I’ve stayed in and even had a bench with running water for cooking inside.
It needs acknowledging how the PN Council have embraced the TA. They have provided this shelter, numerous signs and information boards along the way. This does not go unnoticed by the TA community especially as we pass through other areas that barely acknowledge the presence of the trail or hikers.
Since I arrived at about 2.00pm, while having lunch I considered moving on a bit further and getting few more km under my belt. I was still thinking about this when Cara then Ritchie arrived. Ritchie barely stopped as he had already decided to try to get a bit further today, meanwhile I continued to ponder the options until Robin (who I last saw at the Timber Trail) arrived in the company of Bruce who is the older brother of Alan (who got skittled by the jet boat). This made my decision for me as I looked forward to a catch-up with Robin and the opportunity to get to know Bruce who I’d heard a fair bit about while walking with Alan.
As the afternoon progressed the shelter slowly filled with Dave and Charlie arriving and then Ken and Sue, by which time there was no room in the inn and they chose to put their tent up outside for the night.
So looks like I will have a bit of company going over the Tararuas after all, which from a safety viewpoint is probably a good thing and I’m sure will be a relief to Marie.
Day 67 (2 December)
Whare O Moturimu shelter to Tokomaru Shelter (14km)
A nice short day today with a bit of bush/forest and a forestry road walk to the Tokomaru Shelter.
Woke with my right leg quite painful, feels like tendonitis at the front of the shin. I decided this must be due to the insole I’ve put in that shoe so got rid of that and after a fistful of ibuprofen and rubbing a bit of voltaren onto it set off. I must say I was pretty pissed off that the left leg is now good and the right hurts! Anyway gripes over, and on with another great day!
A couple of crossings of the Tokomaru River which the notes advised could be tricky/difficult but were uneventful, thigh deep at the deepest.
Not really much to note today, with the exception of the history of Burtons Track which I am following. It seems in the early 1900’s James Burton lived here alone while clearing and farming the land on the opposite side of the river to his house. This does beg the question why he didn’t build on the same side as his farm?
Nonetheless in 1941 his homemade bridge collapsed into the river and he sustained severe injuries including a broken leg. He dragged himself for over 12hours to a neighbour and was then taken to hospital (presumably not by helicopter) where he unfortunately died. While this obviously ended in tears it does speak for the toughness of the people who originally cleared and settled this land.
Arriving at the Tokomaru Shelter it is a bit more rustic (translate as older and run down) than last night but nevertheless functional and provides all I need, that is shelter from the weather and water for drinking and food. It is interesting how Maslow’s Hierarchy of needs becomes reality when doing a trek like the TA. Frankly, the basic needs of food, water and shelter are what you look for each day and if that’s available, life’s ok!
By nightfall, the numbers here have swelled again with a new couple Rose and Silas arriving. Again, the inn was full, and Ken and Susan and Rose and Silas chose to tent.
In addition to the sore right shin the left toe where I tore the skin off and the bottom has started to delaminate is also causing a few issues. It has at least stopped bleeding (as it did for a couple of days) but is quite painful and I’m aware I need to try to prevent it getting infected. The issue is every day my shoe and socks are wet and, generally, muddy so preventing infection is a bit of a lottery.
Day 68 (3 December)
Tokomaru Shelter to Makahika Outdoor Pursuits Centre (20km)
Another relatively short day with a mix of dirt road and bush track.
Due to my eschewing breakfast as such and settling on a quick cup of tea and a muesli bar I was again the first out of the shelter and down the road. The road walk was nice and short before entering the bush and the Mangahao to – Makahika Track. Despite being back into the usual muddy bush track it was great to be back in dense bush again.
There was a good climb (about a Haka) up to a peak where a couple of lookouts provided great views over South Manawatu and Horowhenua.
After descending from the ridge and leaving the bush a meandering trail across farmland crossed numerous streams.
Just before leaving the track and resuming a short road walk there is a picnic table and toilet with a plaque commemorating the opening of this track by Helen Clarke in 2008. In celebration of this I lay down on the picnic table and promptly dozed off for twenty minutes or so. The first, and hopefully last, day sleep of the trail for me!!!
I arrived at the Makahika Outdoor Centre early afternoon expecting that some of the others from last night must have passed me while I was resting but found I was the first to arrive. In celebration of this I ate a packet of gummy bears and promptly felt ill, you’d think after 59 years I’d know that a full packet of lollies on an empty stomach makes you sick but seems I’m a slow learner in this regard!
The other hikers from last night slowly drifted in over the next hour or so. Robin and Bruce needed to get a ride to Levin to resupply for the Tararuas. Despite having carried my food from Palmerston I decided to go with them, the lure of a beer and decent pub meal being too strong. Also the outdoor centre was trying to minimise numbers of hikers due to COVID-19 and issues with tracing and the school groups they host, hence it seemed better to let the later arrivals stay there while we went into the town.
A nice night in Levin, with the unexpected bonus of a hot shower and chance to wash my socks. I did start to feel a bit seedy (evidenced by telling Bruce I was done after only one beer) which proved to be an omen of things to come!
My big toe is better looking than yours JB!