Days 93 - 98 Nelson Lakes
- john51648
- Feb 15, 2021
- 13 min read
Day 93 9th February
St Anaud to Upper Travis Hut (31km)
After a day and a half opt in St Anaud it is time to get going again, this time the Nelson Lakes section of the TA. This is another of the more challenging sections although not as much so as the Richmond Ranges.
Dave and Steph had booked a water taxi to take them to the head of Lake Rotoiti, hence shortening their day by about 8km. I decided it would make sense for us to get our packs taken with them and then McVet and I could “slack-pack” the first section of what promised to be long day. On contacting the water taxi guy he advised it was “too much hassle” to stop where we were staying and pick up the packs on his way to the boat ramp, despite my offering to pay. Not the response I expected, but the guy who owns the Alpine Lodge where were staying stepped up and offered his old SUV for Dave and Steph to take everything to the boat ramp and just leave it there. So two differing approaches to business, interesting to see which one works best?!
Leaving the lodge at 6.30am Chris and I made good time to the boat ramp at the southern end of the lake, arriving just after Dave and Steph. Amazing how quickly you can cover ground without a pack.
We then headed off on the Upper Travers Valley track towards John Tait Hut. My original plan had us staying there but over dinner last night we’d decided to follow Steph’s more ambitious itinerary over this section, which was a day or two shorter than mine. This does entail some long days but I’m confident its doable, my only concern being if its too much too soon for McVet. Time will tell!
After lunch at John Tait Hut we proceeded to climb to the Upper Travis Hut. This entailed an ascent of over 500m but does hav e the benefit of reducing the ascent to the Travers Saddle tomorrow.
It had been threatening to rain all morning and finally did after lunch. Unfortunately no sooner had we all stopped and put on coats then it stopped and became hot and steamy, so another stop to disrobe.
The climb up was long but not overly steep. What is becoming apparent is we have differing approaches to mud and streams. I just plow on through, accepting wet muddy feet whereas the others take time finding rocks to jump across on or diverting around patches of mud.
The rain finally set in when I was only about 400m from the hut, too close to stop and put on coat but far enough to ensure I arrived dripping wet!
Arriving at the hut I discovered Warren and Sara there, they had come from John Tait but due to the bad weather had decided to stay over and do the Travers Saddle tomorrow.
A nice night in a warm hut with great company. I think we’ll all be staying together for the section over Travers Saddle and on to Waiau Pass.
Day 94 10th February
Upper Travers to Blue Lake Hut (16km)
This is the first of the big days here in Nelson Lakes, about 1200m of up and the same of down.
The day started wet and cold but straight into the ascent to Travers Saddle.
One thing to note is after the North Island and taking a lightweight but, as it transpired, less than waterproof coat, I’ve swapped out and am using my good Gortex shell down here. It is so nice to be in rain and actually stay dry.
The climb to the saddle was hard and did involve scrambling up a number of boulder fields and a bit of scree but overall it was too tough.
As we got towards the top the rain turned to hail, just to complete the experience. At the top was very cold so we hang around long enough for the obligatory photo then headed off back down. Interestingly we were at the saddle before 9.00am, so making really good time.
The route down was initially boulder strewn tussock/alpine grass but quickly got into the bush.
There was a small bridge over a very deep narrow gorge. Looking down you could hear water roaring through but was unfortunately deep and dark enough to make photographing impossible.
We stopped at West Sabine Hut for lunch.
While in St Anaud Steph and I had gone halves in a jar of kimchi from the market and despite it smelling out our packs it went really well on flat needs with cheese for lunch. Today this was finished and I was sitting in the hut lamenting that when I looked a cross and discovered someone had left 3/4 of a jar of jalapeños on a shelf. So we filled up the kimchi container with them which will supplement lunch for the next couple of days.
Leaving the hut after lunch I made the mistake of following what seemed the obvious path only to emerge under a swing bridge over the river, but with no way onto the bridge. So, tail between legs had to admit my navigational error to those following me and of we all trapped back to the hut and the path to the bridge.
The afternoon was essentially a climb up through bush and across boulder fields to the Blue Lake Hut.
Arriving at the hut there were three girls there and every bit of hook and hanging space in the place was taken with clothing and shoes etc. One of them turned out was a DOC hut warden and not staying there so all the fear belonged to two. Seems they had been there for three days just doing day walks from the hut.
Interesting how some people get hut etiquette and others don’t. These girls didn’t, despite their gear being generally dry they made effort to make space for the six of us wet stuff.
Managed to get a good fire going and hopefully tomorrow will start in dry socks! I’m not sure why that matters as generally they are wet in the first fifteen minutes but it seems to improve my spirit for the day if I can have that few minutes of dry feet!
Bed early as tomorrow is a big day over Waiau Pass and on the Waiau Hut.
Day 95 11th February
Blue Lake Hut to Waiau Hut (16km via Waiau Pass)
Looks like a good day this morning. Cold and a bit cloudy but no rain.
All of us TA walkers in the hut were up at 6.00 and getting sorted, the two other girls trying to have a sleep in.
Leaving the hut we made a detour to have a quick look at Blue Lake. This has been identified as the clearest body of water on earth. Apparently visibility is nearing 100m. While it looked clear (and blue) it was hard from looking at it to discern the difference from other mountain lakes we see on route.
The trail then went up and down a series of scree slopes until arriving above Lake Constance. This is larger than Blue Lake and is believed to be the water source for Blue Lake.
After skirting the shores of Lake Constance the trail then climbs a series long scree slopes to the Waiau Pass.
As we gained height the views back over the ranges were superb. One thing I’m learning on this journey is photos really don’t do just once to the scenery we encounter.
On the climb up we became separated into two groups, Dave, Steph, Sara and I with Chris and Warren/Neville following along behind.
At the top it was cold and windy and not practice to wait for McVet and Warren so we took the obligatory photo and commenced the descent.
While the way up was just hard slog up scree, going down was treacherous, involving climbing down sheer cliffs, boulder fields and very slippery areas of loose scree.
Not long past the pass was the 2000km point for the TA. A previous hiker had marked it with a sign made of rocks.
I must say it was a really nice feeling of satisfaction getting there having walked the entire 2000km over the past few months. Now only 1000 to go!!
The sheer cliff was immediately after the 2000km mark did bring you down to earth pretty quickly.
Our little group of four all managed to climb down without incident but,frankly, one mistake was going to be terminal here.
Despite the cold I waited for Warren and McVet thinking that if they do have an issue another person might be of help. Again they made it down without major incident, the only thing being Warren's pack cover blowing off. Fortunately I was able to climb back up, without my pack, and recover it for him.
Once down the rocky cliff section there was a very steep trail down to a river from which point it looked on the contours as if the trail then proceeded at a steady but manageable decline to the hut. I had visions of a trail meandering along the river bank with no real challenges. How wrong can you be!!
The trail crossed several really large boulder fields, not really being particularly difficult but hot and slow in the afternoon. Periodically it also dropped to the river and crossed various streams and tributaries.
At about 1.30 we passed a couple sitting in one of the boulder fields having something lunch. They were planning on going over the pass today. Given we had been on the move since 7.30 (6 hours) and they had at least that much ahead of them they did seem pretty casual about it. I just hope they knew what lay ahead.
After the boulder fields finished the trail to the hut was generally easy and I arrived about 4.00pm.
The Waiau Hut is pretty new and sleeps six, hence perfectly suited to our little cohort. Luckily no other hikers appeared so we had it to ourselves.
The views from the hut up the valley were superb!
As it was looking like getting cold, and any excuse for a fire, I decided to light the fire. Big mistake!! Seems something was wrong with the fire box or chimney as I succeeded in turning the hut into a cold smoker. All we needed was some pork belly and beef brisket and we could have been selling smoked small goods at the farmer’s market
Once we’d cleared the smoke and killed the inevitable sandflies it was a good night.
Today was the toughest day of the Nelson Lakes section and one everyone talks about as being a benchmark of difficult. Frankly, however, it was a doddle compared to Richmond Ranges. Perhaps some if this is having shapes that don’t hurt at every step but I also think the trail fitness is improving after the time off over Christmas.
Day 96 February 12th
Waiau Hut to Anne Hut (26km)
A nice easy day today after a couple of hard ones.
The trail follows initially the Waiau River then the Henry River through river flats to the hut.
Up until today some in our party (namely everyone except Warren and I) have been trying to keep their feet dry. Well today sorted through out, multiple river and stream crossing together with areas of mud ensured everyone finished with wet feet.
The scenery today was not unlike I imagine the African savanna except lacking the zebras, giraffes and lions etc.
Waiau Hut is a large newish 20 bunk hut on the St James Walkway. We have it to ourselves though.
We’re all sorting plans for resupply for the next section and it seems we’re all going to go into Hanmer for a day on Monday then return to the trail early Tuesday. Tomorrow though we will split , I’m planning (an d I think McVet’s with me) on taking two days to B Pyle Village whereas the others are planning on getting there tomorrow and having a free day on Sunday before we share a shuttle to Hanmer.
Now one thing those reading this may have noted is after endured two weeks of my complaining about innumerable blisters and other foot ailments I’ve stopped. The reason being, my dear Marie sent an old pair of my North Island shoes down to St Anaud. I feel like I’m in foot heaven and slowly the blisters are going.
I’ve successfully destroyed this pair but have another pair waiting for in a few days so will continue as I did in the north accepting that shoes are a consumable and replacing them as they become less like shoes and more like sandles.
My suggestion for anyone looking for a good stock pick is buy shares in Altra as they are going to see a spike in sales over the next couple of months!
Currently my shoe budget for the TA is looking like being not far short of 50cents per km.
Day 97 13th February
Anne Hut to Magdalen Hut (21km)
Today out little cohort is splitting up. Chris and were planning g on only going as far as Boyle Flat hut (about 16km) and the others are going all the way to Boyle Village. We’re all sharing a shuttle to Hanmer tomorrow afternoon but I thought two shortish days was the go whereas everyone else wanted to get it done and dusted and have a rest in Boyle. The ones going to Boyle were up early and off by about 7.00am, Chris and I a little late leaving at about 7.30 or so.
The morning was really cold and while the hut was in the sun the track quickly headed onto the shady side of the valley and remained in then shade until after 9.00am. Needless to say cold and wet feet.
This section is part of the St James walkway which while the name suggests something better than you average track transpires is really just a fancy name. It varies from well formed in places to muddy/boggy patches and tree fall you need to divert around.
The Anne Saddle is a relatively low saddle and after descending form there we followed the Boyle River.
Boyle Flat hut is on the western side of the river and after crossing over the swing bridge and climbing to then hut we were pleasantly surprised. It was a lovely old hut with real character. After taking off shoes and starting to get sorted we went in search of water. It seems this is this huts Achilles Heel. The water tank is not connected to the gutters and the only water is a long walk back down to the river.
Given the day was still relatively young we decided to kit back up again and head on to Magdalen Hut, which while not on the trail is only about 1km off the trail and hopefully would have water either in a tank or close by.
The trail to Magdalen Hut was again pretty easy and it took us a little over an hour to reach it. Transpired moving here was a great descision. The hut is a small newish six bunk hut with water McVet and I have it to ourselves.
It is a really interesting location for a hut as it is at the end of a dead end track. Seems no logical reason anyone would come here (although we did) and reading the Intentions Book seems very few do. It is almost as if DOC had a spare hut and someone in their office threw a dart at a map and said “that’s a where we’ll put it”!
Getting back to the trail tomorrow will require a bit of bush wacking as we intend to ford the river and head straight to the track instead of going back the way we came.
Day 98. February 14 (Valentine’s Day)
Magdalen Hut to Boyle Village then Hanmer (8km walk 60km hitch)
Chris woke me with breakfast in bed and a dozen red roses for Valentine’s Day. Such a lovely thought. NOT!!!
Actually woke at the usual 6.00 but due to the short day lazed around until a bit before seven then the usual morning routine of tea, porridge and packing the pack up for the day.
As an aside, for those who’ve followed this blog from the start, I’ve conquered the porridge making and not burning it. The secrete being put the lid under the pot which disperses the heat and works a charm. So now I can make it but frankly like so many of the other hiking staples I’m over it and just eat it because I know I need food for energy. In the same vein McVet has been pondering how fasting would go on the TA, having the dual advantage of not having to carry food and not having to eat stuff you frankly just don’t want. Unfortunately the consensus is it is of uncertain potential, although perhaps Paleo Pete could take the fasting hike as his next cause!!
Today we decided rather than backtracking to the main trail to carry on down on the east side of the Boyle River as far as possible before crossing over and rejoining the St James trail into Boyle. By doing this our route today is only about 8km to Boyle so very short. While heading along the east bank we kept a close eye on the river to ensure it remained crossable.
We did have some fun on the way chasing Canadian geese and getting them to fly then trying to photograph them. Not with any great success however.
We also got a contender for the South Island “Ugly Cow Award”, not in the same league as the North Island one but still a stand-out in the current stakes.
After about 4km we crossed back to the trail and discovered it was actually significantly harder than making our own path down the river flat. Not overly difficult but enough to make us puff a few times.
Arriving in Boyle, which is actually nothing, just an outdoor pursuits centre and a rest area on the Lewis Pass road, we discovered plans had changed. Seems the other hikers who went straight through yesterday, and we going to share a shuttle with us to Amber this afternoon, were unable to get accomodation at Boyle so had gone to Hanmer last night. Due to our being in the bush still they were unable to let us know.
I decided the best course of action was to hitch into Hanmer rather than call amd wait for a shuttle. Again my hitching prowess came to the fore and the first vehicle to pass turned around, came back and picked us up and even went 10kms out of his way to drop us in the middle of Hanmer. So an hour after getting to Boyle we’re sitting having a beer in Hanmer.
My brother, Dave, is currently in the South Island, doing a marketing trip around for a couple of weeks, and drove up from Christchurch to meet up. It really was great to catch up with him and have a beer and chat, having not caught up on person for about five months.
Now the really big news for the day!!! I collected the new shoes dear Marie had sent down and discovered she’d filled out the shoe box with fruit cake!! Now fruit cake is one food I’m not getting tired of, and hopefully never will!
Dave, Steph’s dad, who has been hiking with us since the Richmond Ranges leaves today to go back to Auckland, so farewell to him and also Warren/Neville who has decided to suspend his TA and go back to Dunedin.
Hanmer is such a great little town, I haven’t been here for over ten years but despite obvious development it has retained some real charm. I’m sure we’ll enjoy our day off here before we go back to Boyle and start on the next section through to Arthurs Pass.
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