Days 5 & 6

Day 5 Ahipara to Kaitaia to Raetea Forest (unexpectedly!)

 I planned a short day today to Kaitaia (more on that later) so thought if I started a bit early could have a bit of a look around when I got there and sort out resupply etc for the Ratea Forest section.  As I was leaving the camp met a big Maori guy, Tuhoe Isaac, with full ta moko and got chatting. Transpires he is an ex Mongrel Mob gang leader who has, in his words, found his whanau and god. He’s written a book, True Red, and is currently on a road trip of the north. He told me my journey will be blessed as I share the name of John the Baptist, on reflection we probably both go by the same nickname (JB) too. Fascinating and an encounter that sort of defines this journey.  Only got to the edge of town and smelt coffee, rounded corner and there was a lovely little cafe.  Stopped for a long black. So far I’ve been going for an hour nearly and walked less than 2km, it might be a long day after all!

Like Adam with the Apple the temptation proved too much!!

The next encounter was with some roadwork  guys and notably the stop/go guy. He was a bit perplexed when I asked if I should go on the go and hence with the cars coming from behind me (dangerous) or should I go on the stop which meant I’d be facing the cars. His view was I could go whenever I want but “don’t get bloody run over!”.

Another interesting thing was after a bit of a misunderstanding one roadwork guy spoke fluent French to me thinking I was French. Turns out he’s played pro rugby there for a few years and is now back on the road gang. It was noticeable how hot it was off the beach (seemed unseasonably so), down to a tee shirt for most of the morning. 

A long hot morning on the road

I entered Kaitaia there were a group of young guys crowded around a Harley on the pavement. The clear aroma of cannabis floated back to. Obvious which way they’re intending to vote in the forthcoming referendum. I was left with two choices, cross the road to avoid them (felt wimpy) or carry on and befriend them, I went with the later. Turns out they were the local King Cobras and keen for a chat, really interested in what I was doing and frankly downright friendly. So my second gang related encounter of the day.

While for the majority of New Zealand the referendum is crime/health issue, up here it’s an economic development one!

Finally got to Kaitaia a bit before 12.00 and my plan was to walk up to motel we stayed in on the way to Cape Reinga and stay there for the night collecting my food I’d left there.  On the way through Kaitaia I started to think perhaps I could make the first camp in the Raetea forest and effectively gain a day. Looked at the motel and that sealed it.  So cancelled my booking, repacked with four day’s food and a new gas cylinder. Needed a couple of things from the shops and spotted a sushi shop and in a day where self control wasn’t really a strong point decided, despite a very long walk ahead of me I’d get sushi and sit in the park to eat it.  Good it was too! 

Sushi at the park bench, again temptation got in the way of common sense !

So finally at about 1.30 I set off towards the camp at the edge of the forest, about 21km away.  Nothing too difficult about it as it was generally on roads albeit very hot and in places pretty busy.  I needed to keep aware of traffic as sometimes there was no verge.  Trail magic is where people put out food or drinks for tired hikers. It is apparently quite common on long trails like TA, perhaps more so overseas but is fortunately catching on here. About a km from the camp there was a box sitting beside the trail overflowing with chips, snacks and beer. So my last km (which was steeply uphill) was powered by a beer, probably the best tasting one I’ve ever had.  I really can’t thank whoever left that enough. 

Enjoying the “trail magic “ beer!

Got to the camp at about 6.00pm to be reunited with the old team, Robyn had walked straight through, no buggering around in Kaitaia (smart lady) and Tahlia, who we thought had left the trail due to a sore foot has got a ride to about 5km from the camp. We were also joined by a new guy, Ding, who is hiking as far as Whangarei. 

Our camp at the edge of Raetea Forest

Interesting toilet at camp, a repurposed calf feeder.

One of the notable things from today was that the passing gang members on their Harleys, almost all truckers, anyone in a flouro jacket and at least half the cars passing waved. I was also passed by six or seven police cars all of who I waved to and not one waved back! NZ Police might want to think about their PR up here because if I’m looking for friendly company I may well go to the gangs. So what started out as a relatively short day turned into a bit over 40km! 

Day 6 Raetea Forest to Mangamuka

Mud, mud and more mud!

Today is only 18km but is the notorious Raetea forest and going will be slow and tough.

Didn’t start that well as it was really cold overnight and the new lightweight 0degC sleeping bag doesn’t quite do what it says on the tin! Ended up sleeping with puffer on and still a bit chilly but hopefully the nights will warm and I’ll persevere with it for the North Island. 

Managed to burn the porridge again!

Day started with a 1.5 Haka climb followed by some ups and downs to the Raetea Summit at 744m. Overall probably about two Hakas up. 

For anyone who’s unfamiliar a Haka is a standard measure of elevation gain equaling 305m or 1000ft. It’s based on the climb to the Hakarimata summit in Ngaruawahia. 

Elevation of today’s journey

The track was terribly muddy and impossible not to just tramp on through ankle deep mud in places. Track probably is the wrong descriptor, you knew to follow the mud where hikers and wild pigs had been before you. The pigs were part of the problem as they’d dug up large areas on the track. 

There were many giant snail shells on the trail, unfortunately none intact to give a true sense of their size. I’m presuming the pigs are devouring them. 

One of numerous giant snail shell after the pigs had their way with them.

There was also a fair bit of tree fall which meant detouring around and then finding the track on the far side. 

Somewhere in there is a track!

Mud

Caught up with Tahlia just before the summit and we chopped and changed for the balance of the day. Could really walk and talk as it was single width most of the way, and, frankly, I was too buggered to talk. 

The last two five  km or so were a steep muddy descent followed by a flat stretch along what looked like an old logging trail followed by a knee destroying 1.5Haka descent over about 2km. 

Muddy (and somewhat cut and grazed) legs and shoes.

By the time got to the camp it was 4.30pm so took 8.5hrs to cover 18km! That shows how tough it was. 

Camp was beside a stream, had a long drop (unfortunately located upstream of the water collection spot) and plenty of space for tents. Being in a valley the sun went early and in bed by 7.30pm. 

So, what will I remember today for? Mud, mud and more mud!!!