Days 21 and 22
- john51648
- Oct 20, 2020
- 6 min read
Day 21 (17th October) Mangawhai to Pakiri (~23km)
A great night in Mark and Kerry's cabin. As I’ve said before the generosity of people who make this experience possible is amazing. Mark and Kerry provide the cabin and if required tenting in the section adjacent to their house in exchange for koha.
Thought the cafe down the road on Mangawhai would have been open for breakfast so after packing headed there, but alas it was closed. There was however a cake and coffee place nearby so settled for the healthy breakfast option of cronut and long black!
Because today is only 23km I decided to detour and have a wander around the Mangawhai market which is held every Saturday in the back of the tavern.
A great market, I’d recommend it to anyone who finds themselves in this part of NZ on a Saturday. In my view as good, albeit smaller and less crowded, as the famous Matakana market.
While at the market I got a smoked chorizo to put with my rice one night for dinner. Looks great and the butcher reckons it’s good for a week unrefrigerated as he both hot and cold smokes them. Hope he’s right otherwise the results may not be too pleasant!
I supplemented the cronut with a raspberry danish so pretty well feed by the time I decide to get away.
The initial part of today was a road walk leaving Mangawhai and then on through the Mangawhai Forest emerging at “no name” beach north of Te Arai point. It was then back to beach walking, this time however the beach had a significant slope on it which combined with the wind made it a bit awkward and I found myself heading towards the water if I wasn’t watching where I was headed.
At Te Arai Point there seems to be a pretty good surf break and a large number of surfers, quite spectacular as you got up high on the point looking down on the surf.
After going over the point (only about 1/4Haka but felt like more today) you see the expanse of Pakiri Beach stretching out on front of you. It’s about 12km of pristine white sand, absolutely spectacular to look at but pretty hard yakka walking.
There’s the usual streams crossing the beach periodically just to ensure your shoes remain wet and squelchy!
Along the entire 12km I saw only two people (probably about halfway) who were farm workers from the farm behind the dunes and, I think, had come down to the beach for a kiss and cuddle, interrupted by a hairy trekker wandering along!
The sheer scale of such a beautiful beach with hardly a sole on it does really make you appreciate what we have here in New Zealand.
As I got to Pakiri there were surfers and the holiday camp appeared. Despite being a pretty short day today, I was glad to be here and have a bit of time this arvo to chill before a couple of really big days to come.
Got a cabin tonight and turns out another couple of TA walkers (Chrissy and Jackie) who I’d met briefly at Whananaki were also staying so good to have a chat to them.
I was a little worried if I took three days to Puhoi I’d be short of a meal so to conserve food in my pack I settled for the camp store dinner of meat pie, chicken curry, ice cream and a bottle of Diet Coke.
As I was eating my ice cream one of the camp regulars, Pete, wandered by and asked if I felt like a beer. Never one to turn down a beer I went to his caravan and enjoyed a great couple of hours with him and his wife Phoebe. Actually caravan doesn’t do it justice, they managed to creat a small holiday home in a permanent caravan site.
So what should have been an early night became late by my treking standards, it was after 9.00pm before I turned in! They talk about 8.00pm being hiker midnight and that’s pretty close to the truth. Some nights, especially when camping, I’ve found myself tucked up in my tent before 7.00pm.
Day 22 (18th October) - Pakiri to a piece of grass somewhere (~28km, but felt like 48!)
The toughest day so far!!
This section of the trail is a bit lacking in camping/accomodation options so requires either three shortish days or two long days to get through to Puhoi.
I decided to start the day without a plan and see how it went, if a could get to the 490km point, where there was a camping spot, that would be long day but would also mean I got to Puhoi in two days. If not, no drama, it’s not a race!
The day was essentially a series of steep climbs followed by steep descents mostly in thick bush so not without some challenges.
I started out at about 6.15am so an early start but felt it worthwhile if I as going to go the distance. Leg for the first day in probably the last week felt good when I started so took that as a good omen.
After a relatively flat road walk out of Pakiri the trail then climbed 1.5 Hakas (450m) steeply which was really the theme of the day. At the top was a sign saying this section of trail was opened by Sir Edmund Hillary (perhaps it reminded him of Everest!).
The views from the peaks , when I could see them for the sweat in my eyes, were spectacular. At times looking forward to the next peak and viewpoint was what kept me plodding on forwards.
At one of the peaks was a large weather radar installation. It really appeared so out of place as you emerged from the bush.
One interesting but infuriating thing was that my pack started squeezing! Bloody annoying but nothing I could do about it apart from swear at it which didn’t seem to fix the issue.
Once into the bush it was great, albeit continuing to oscillate between steep up and steep down. If my knees weren’t hurting my calves were!
One thing that was nice was as I moved south was the views were over Matarangi and out to Kawau, where we have our holiday home. Almost wondered what I’m was doing up here when I could have been out fishing there!
At one point you left the bush for a short, but steep road walk to the next bit of bush. This was a relatively quiet gravel road and as I round a corner I’m confronted by two girls selling lemonade with all funds going to the animal sanctuary (which it would seem is their ducks, chooks etc). As I’m getting low on water I buy two glasses and pay for three as a donation to the “sanctuary”.
Once back in the bush I stopped for a cuppa and taco with peanut butter, knowing it was going to be long day this seemed like a good move. I generally tend to snack on the go and then have a sort of dinner and a half once I get to my destination but today warranted a change in strategy.
Just before the final climb to the Dome look-out there was a stream crossing, something I was dreading as my shoes had finally dried out! Imaging my pleasure when confronted with a stream that had strategically place flat boulders to walk across on. It also provided a good place to top up with a bit of water.
After the Dome there was a steepish descent and then the trail crossed SH1. Now I’m sure on a normal day this is not a big issue but late afternoon at the end of a weekend with good weather thrown in it was a serious mission. I ended up sprinting across but still got a couple of horns chasing me.
After SH1 the trail is on a road that climbs steeply (Auckland Downhill Mountain Bike guys were having a comp here) for a few km before I finally find my little bit of paradise, an area a local has mown near the road for tents.
In the end the day took me about 11 hours, so the longest and dare I say the toughest of the trail so far.
I’m the only one here tonight and actually tucked up in my tent ready for sleep before 7.00pm.
So my final thoughts on this tough day, it really summarises why I’m doing the TA. Bloody hard work but magnifcent bush and coastal views and a chance to experience our country in a unique way.
The Tron is in your sights John, are you using your poles much at this stage of your walk?
Sounds really tough at times John. Loving the photos. Glad you didn't end up as road kill on SH1. Haha. Take care. Love Colleen x
Tough going John, dont envy the hard slog, but you can see what a fantastic country we live in!