Days 106 - 114

This section includes between the Rakaia and Rangitata Rivers and the Two Thumbs range to Tekapo

Day 106 22 February

Bealey to Hamilton Hut (18km)

Yesterday was spent catching g up on. This blog, sorting food for the next section and also walking the road section from Greyneys Shelter to the start of the trail on SH37. We did this by hitching from Arthur’s Pass to Greyney’s Shelter then walking the 10km on the road and hitching back to the Bealey Hotel for the night. The hitching wen t remarkably well with the second car to pass us in Arthur’s Pass (Lynn from Greymouth) picking us up and about the second car going the other way picking us up for the return ride. So we managed to knock over the walk, in about two hours.

Also yesterday we got the food resupply boxes for the next section. Big surprise in mine, dear Marie had not only put in fruit cake and homemade muesli bars b hut also an extra four packets of gummy bears and a couple of little bags of chocolates as treats for McVet and I. So nice to open it and find those special treats!!

Now we’ve decided to go via Methvyn in getting around the Rakaia River (I’ll expand on this closer to the time) we actually only need about three days food for this section. I had planned on eight days and hence had a lot of surplus food. We repackaged the surplus and the lovely people at the Bealey Hotel have undertaken to send it on to Twizel for us to collect there. This will work out really well as the section after Twizel is quite long.

After packing up last night we headed out to earlyish to hitch back to where we finished yesterday. Unfortunately SH37 is not the busiest of roads, actually about a car every five minutes. Took us half an hour to get a fried and the guy who picked us up initially went past then returned about five minutes later, having obviously had second thoughts and feeling sorry for us. We only needed to go about four km so he probably turned about where he dropped its off!

The trail quickly started uphill and climbed for about two Hakas before dropping back into the Harper River Valley and following the Harper River. We actually follow this river now for the next couple of days until Lake Coleridge.

From the top the views back over the Waimakariri River and up towards Arthurs pass were spectacular and made the climb well worth while.

About morning tea time we came to Lagoon A Frame hut which for mine gets the cutest hut of the TA award so far.

After the A frame we continued to follow the river, sometimes on the river bed and other times climbing steeply above it to miss gorges and/or slips.

After crossing a couple of swing bridges we arrived at Hamilton Hut. A DOC guy was there doing a hut inspection which was interesting. Seems serviced huts get inspected once every year and non- serviced once every four years. This explains why some maintenance seems to take ages to get noticed and done on some of these huts.

During the afternoon I went for a bit of a walk/run up to Mirror Tarn which was signposted off the trail. A nice outing without a pack and the tarn was interesting but not enticing enough for a swim. Actually it was a thick murky green!!

Hamilton Hut is enormous sleeping about 20 (with three high bunks) but McVet and I have it to ourselves with one other NOBO hiker (Rebecca).

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Day 107 23 February

Hamilton Hut to Harper Campsite (20km)

Today is a pretty short day and we’ll be camping at the end so decided to have a slow morning and set out about 9.00ish.

For some reason I had decided the trail went from the second swing bridge so we merrily walked about a km back to the bridge only to realise I had totally cocked it up and we n ended to go back to the hut side of the lady swing bridge. So not our most auspicious start!

The trail follows a four wheel drive track all the way to Harper Corner, the only interest being it crosses the Harper River numerous times.

As the day wore on the famed Canterbury nor-wester set in and made walking hard work, especially as in the Harper Valley the wind was being funnelled up the valley so was actually coming at us from the west or even sou-west.

None thing of interest along the way was there were some pinnacle on the other side of the river. Not really close enough to get a real appreciation but good nevertheless.

We finally arrived at the Harper Campsite mid-afternoon and to say it was windswept would be an understatement.

There really was very little shelter and so I bit the bullet, picked what seemed a half reasonable spot and set up my tent there. McVet initially set his up adjacent to me but later in the afternoon decided to move and found the one slightly sheltered spot at the far end of the campsite.

My tent withstood the wind pretty well, although periodically a gust would come through which flattened it but it popped back up ok.

A relatively boring afternoon sitting in the tent reading and listening to the Obama audio book. I did manage to eat a whole packet of gummy bears and 3/4 of a family block of chocolate while doing this so didn’t totally waste the time!!

The days most exciting event occurred when I was preparing my dinner. Because of the wind it was necessary for me cook in the vestibule of the tent. Unfortunately a gust hit and the tent flattened and my burner melted a hole in the side of tent. Bloody lucky the whole thing didn’t go up in flames!

This did give me something to break the monotony of being in a windswept tent as I set to patching it. I’m pleased to report its now as good as new but with a couple of black patches!

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Day 108. February 24

Harper Campsite to Rakaia River Trail End (28km)

Now to explain how this section works. The Rakaia River has been declared a hazard zone on the trail, consequently hikers get shuttled around from ones side to the other. In our case McVet’s brother, Richard, is going to pick us up from Coleridge and drop in in Methven and we will then get the local campground people to run us back to the other side tomorrow. This also allows us to resupply in Methven.

The walk from Harper Camp to Coleridge is largely a road walk with on my a 3.5km section of track at the Coleridge end.

We got away about 7.00, with Chris ready first, the first time this has occurred on the hike. He had difficulty sleeping so was up well before 6.00 and by the time I got up had pretty much packed. He headed off while I packed in the wind. No hot drink for breakfast today as the heating stuff in this gale is just too much hassle.

The only thing to report on the road walk is how strong the wind was. At times it literally blew you across the road and when it was directly behind you it picked up grit and small stones and blew them into the backs of your legs. Dermabrasion for the lower leg!!

We arrived in Coleridge pretty over the wind but right on time to meet Richard, who took us to the Methven campground.

After checking in and farewelling Richard, long hot showers to try and wash out the dust and then off to shop for the next six days. I’m planning, subject to river levels, on crossing the Rangitata River (this is another hazard zone, but one that seems crossable in the right conditions) so need food for at least six days. It’s always a balance between having enough to eat and a heavy pack.

Dinner at the pub with Steph who had stayed in Methven to miss the windy weather, so tomorrow we depart as our little cohort of three again.

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Day 109 25 Feb

Glenrock to Comyns Hut (15km)

We arranged to get the shuttle at 9.30, thus allowing time to have a good breakfast in town and finish packing for the next section.

The campground people at Methven are another case of people having embraced the TA and going out of their way to support the hiking community. On demand they run a shuttle to the trail ends around the Rakaia which we’re issuing today to get to Glenrock.

From Glenrock the trail straight away gets into a two Haka climb to Turton’s Saddle. This was not initially overly steep but just a bit relentless. One issue today Is Chris has really sore shins from the road walk yesterday. Seems to be the same tendinitis I and some of the folk I hiked with in the North Island got after a few long road walks. Hopefully dosing up with nurofen and Voltaren gel might sort it out but McVet is clearly uncomfortable today.

We did bump into a large group of NOBOS one of who had crossed the Rangitata so was able to confirm for me the urban legend instructions of where to cross were pretty good.

We got to A-Frame Hut about 1.00pm so decided to stop here for lunch. Like so many of the huts in the South Island this was a neat little hut. Only sleeps three but just had a great feel to it.

After lunch there was only about six km of generally downhill track to the hut. So despite a late start and a rather lengthy lunch break we were at the hut by about 3.30pm

Guy, an Aussie chap we’d previously met was there having used the local school but to shuttle back from Methven.

Comyns Hut is a real old school hut but has been renovated using Dexion racking as framing but retaining the old corrugated iron. It really does have some character, but also most likely mice and/or rats so will need to make sure all food is hung.

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Day 110 27 February Comyns Hut to Manuka Hut (22km) Woke early and McVet told us he’d decided to go back to Methven because of his tendinitis in his shins. Bugger, but probably the correct decision as one thing is sure, these things don’t get better on the trail.

After a sad farewell to Chris, Steph, Guy and I set off. The trail today’s initially follows the Hukatere River then the Round Hills Creek as it climbs towards Clent Hills Saddle. We started of in a fog/low cloud that progressively cleared as the morning wore on. This did make for some pretty dramatic views with the mountains shrouded in the mist. The trail crosses the river and creek frequently, by my count we crossed 74 times, although I might have missed one or two!! So a morning of cold wet feet but not I enjoyable. Most of the crossings were pretty shallow, rarely above the knees so no real drama.

The final climb to Clents saddle was a nice steady up with great views from the top. The cloud had not fully burnt off.

Down the other side we crossed a couple of scree slopes and then pretty easy going to the turn-off to Manuka Hut.

On the way down hill we passsed a couple of mountain lakes, I was thinking a swim this afternoon might be good but this idea was crushed given the lakes have dried and were now just muddy areas with a few sad looking ducks sitting around.

Manuka Hut is another really old-school hut, like Comyns, but this time with the original timber framing.

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Day 111 27 February

Manuka Hut to Potts River Carpark (34km)

This is a good solid day, a mix of four wheel drive track, gravel road and track.

We started off pretty early as wanted to try to get as much done as possible before it got to hot.

The night before Louis, a young English TA walker, had arrived at the hut about the time we were turning in, so now we are a cohort of four. The trail initially followed a 4wd track then a gravel road before departing the road and following the Clearwater track cross country towards Mt Potts.

At one stage a truck with a water tank passed us and returned about half an hour later having dropped off the tank. On returning Louis and Guy were perched on the deck having accepted a ride to the trail turn-off. Given my having got this far walking every metre I couldn’t bring myself to accept a ride but Steph had no such compunctions and swiftly jumped on. I gave them my pack and agreed they’d leave it beside the road at then turn-off.

Transpired the turn-off as only about 750m ahead so I arrived not long after the truck had departed and the others were still getting sorted. Guy and Louis did good out of this having risen about 4km but Steph less so. The walk from the trail end at the road was frankly boring and hot. I respected to listening to my audio-book for a fair bit of it.

We finally reached the top of a ridge which afforded great views across the valle to Clearwater Village. We diverted around the lake to the west so didn’t go to the village and frankly wouldn’t want to. Despite being labeled a village it appears there is no milk bar, cafe or pub here just a cluster of about 30 or so houses. After dropping of the ridge, Steph and I stopped for lunch but without any shelter we didn’t hang around too long. Then back onto the track to Potts River Carpark.

At the carpark there is a large grassy area under some willow trees, perfect for camping and close to the Rangitata for tomorrow mornings crossing. Steph (perhaps the sensible one!), having decided to not cross the river but go by shuttle to Geraldine then shuttle back to the other side tomorrow set off about 4.30pm. A nice evening sitting around chatting and generally relaxing.

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Day 112 - 28th February Potts River Carpark to Crooked Spur Hut (18km) Guy, Louis and I decided to get away as early as possible in order to get the Rangitata River crossing completed and onto the track. We were up and de-camped by 6.30 and headed off towards the river. The issue with this crossing is it is not documented in the trail notes or for that matter anywhere else except a few comments from other hikers on Guthook. It seems the best advice is cross the bridge over the Potts river then head weary initially before turning towards the south and crossing the various strands of the river. Being a large braided river it does change course frequently so observations from last year may not be applicable this year. On getting to the river bed it was a couple of km before we came to then first, and what proved to be the most challenging, channel. I started across this before deciding it was too dicey and returning to then bank. We then, as a group moved a hundred metres or so downstream and crossed relatively easily. It was flowing softly but only up to our upper thighs. Enough to get in trouble but not overly dangerous.

After this first crossing the way across was straight forward. Perhaps a dozen or so crossing but none very difficult. After crossing most of the river there was a bit of dried river bed with scrub and matagouri (thorny bush) which proved dificult and did mean by the time I was safely on the otherside my legs are pretty well scratched up.

After a rest on the road the trail proceeds to follow Bush Stream up the valley. This all passes through Mesopotamia Station. We decided, based on advice from a local tramper we met at the bottom, to follow the stream all the way until the final last climb to the hut. Not sure if this was a good or bad option, without retiring and doing it again the other way it is hard to know.

After leaving then stream there was a long 300m (one Haka) climb to the hut. While we were there for a late lunch it was difficult to see how going on to the next hut would actually gain much so decided on a short day and a bit of a recharge.

Despite there being a coupler of older and somewhat know it all trampers there we did get a pretty relaxing afternoon lounging in the sun and chilling.

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Day 113 1 March

Crooked Spur Hut to Camp Stream Hut (32km)

A nearly six Haka day!!

Woke to rain early but fortunately this cleared and day dawned cold but dry. A really beautiful sunrise over the valley looking back towards the Rangitata.

Steph and I had decided to get away early today and hopefully get to a good pace we could camp just below Stag Saddle, this being the highest point on the TA. Our cunning plan being we could get up early tomorrow and watch the sunrise from the saddle.

The day started with a long climb (about two Hakas) up to Crooked Spur Saddle. Once up there we were afforded fabulous views both back over the Brabazon Ranges, where we’d come from, and forward down the valley between the Two Thumb and Sinclair Ranges, where we’re headed.

As usual the descent was more arduous than the climb, despite having come over 2000km my knees protest loudly on every descent. You would think by now they would have worked out that for every up there’s a down and just quietly (and painlessly) suck it up, but no!!

After the saddle the trail dropped down into the valley and followed the stream(s) until Stone Hut. This as an interesting hut as it sits directly below a rock fall which ends only a few metres from the rear of the hut. I’m not sure I’d want to be here in either a big storm or earthquake. Like many of the huts in this area this one does have the look of frequent visits from hunters as there are a few comforts such as camp chairs and pots and pans. On the walls of these. Huts there are also notes left by hunting parties, some dating back to the early sixties, which list the participants and the deer/thar shot.

After a brief morning tea bar we set off to Royal Hut, this being the next one along the stream. The trail to here is pretty well formed and only took us about an hour and a half to get to the hut.

Royal Hut is so named because apparently Prince Charles and Princess Ann stayed here at some stage during their youth when they were visiting New Zealand. Given. This is another of the basic backcountry huts. I’m presuming they gave it a bit of a spruce up before the royal visits. Perhaps getting rid of the rats and mice and perhaps a bit of bleach on the mattresses to remove the mould was the order of the day!

A nice leisurely lunch at Royal Hut, although even taking our time this was only about twenty minutes, and we were off up towards Stag Saddle.

As mentioned earlier Stag Saddle is the highest point on the TA, being 1925m. Guthook, the navigation app we use had a comment from a previous hiker that identified a good campsite about a km before and 150m below the saddle. This seemed a good option for camping tonight and hopefully despite the building wind would be sufficiently sheltered to make camping viable.

The climb up to this supposed campsite was not overly arduous, a few steep bits but generally a steady climb initially up the stream then a very steep section onto the flatter valley floor where we were going to camp.

Upon arriving at the location of the camping spot it quickly became apparent this was not a good option. The stream was actually a boggy marsh and the lake someone had referred to was actually dried up and again soft and boggy. It seemed the options here were camp on uneven broken rock (and hence risk ruining tent floors) or on top of a bog.

After a brief discussion we decided we needed to press on and get to Camp Stream Hut for the night. By this time it was about 2.00pm and we’d been going for seven hours and starting g to feel a bit jaded given the climbing we’d done. Anyway off we went, buoyed along by the lure of getting to Stag Pass and the TA high point.

Arriving at Stag Pass, puffed and tired, the views made us immediately forget how tired were. It rally was spectacular looking both out over Lake Tekapo and behind us over where we’d come from.

Stag Pass is also as close as damnit to the halfway mark for the South Island, so another milestone ticked off!

After a few minutes just soaking in the view and resting we moved on. From the Pass Steph had heard/read that if you made your at west to a large scree slope you could Siddle around this and then once on the ridge line follow it all the way down to Camp Stream and the hut. How simple that sounded!!

Our first challenge lay in getting to the scree slope, this involved continuing to climb above the pass and over broken brown rock. Finally reaching the scree we made our way across and finally got onto the ridge.

This ridge ran continuously for about five or six km. The first couple of km were great, not too steep and enjoying the view over Lake Tekapo and the Southern Alps behind. After this it did become pretty monotonous as we continued to trudge along.

At this time we were navigating from the topo maps and were becoming increasingly concerned the trail to the hut was not obvious. Finally we came upon a sign which advised Camp Stream Hut was 50minutes away, this was about 4.30pm so on we trudged.

After about 50 minutes still no sign of the hut and equally concerning we seemed to have run out of used trail. Fortunately a 4WD track that according to the map lead to the hut appeared in front of us, unfortunately it as steeply down between us and this track. Once finally on the 4WD track we made pretty good time getting to the hut a little before 6.00pm. So the 50minutes promised was about an hour and a half.

Arriving at the hut, it turned out the day was not yet over. Transpires this hut has no water except a stream 200m away, unfortunately for me the 200m is across the ground, what the notes failed to mention is the 50m down to the stream. Anyway off I went with the half full container of dodgy water down to the stream where I dumped it and refilled it with 15l or so of good water. Now, you might be asking why would anyone in their right mind carry water down to the stream to dump it? Well, bloody good question, the only answer is that by that point in the dayI was not in my right mind. It only occurred to me how dumb this was after I’d finally got back to the hut.

The Camp Stream Hut is the oldest hut on the TA and Steph and I had it to ourselves, frankly lucky as if it had many more it would have been pretty cramped. It is a really basic hut but had a great fire and proved to be a really nice place to rest after such an epic day!

All in all a great day, not easy, but no one said this was meant to be, and feels great to have covered so much ground and gotten over the two saddles in the one day! Alan and Sue

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Day 114 March 2nd

Camp Stream Hut to Tekapo (34km )

Steph and both decided we could reward ourselves for yesterdays effort by sleeping in until 6.30, so a bit of a later start but still away before 7.30.

The trail initially dropped back to that bloody stream from last night, both gave Steph an understanding of what I was so over it by the time I got the water yeesterday and also reinforced to me how dumb. Carrying water down there was!

Immediately after crossing the stream we climbed a little then dropped back to the stream. Steph went first and despite doing the whole descent rather gracefully including a short run at then end managed to rather ungracefully just as she stopped, cutting her hand. So a bit of trail side first aid and off we go again.

The rest of the morning was pretty’s bit of déjà vu after yesterday afternoon. A long walk through tussock until we came out on the road that runs around the Tekapo lakefront.

At the road Steph had organised a shuttle into town, about 18km away, whereas ever the purist I was walking it. I was able to “slack-pack” this however as the shuttle took my pack into town for me.

The walk into town was relatively quick taking me only about tow and half hours and while hot was not unenjoyable with the road very quiet and he views across the lake. Also the ongoing listening to Obama’s memoir broke then monotony.

In Tekapo we met up again with McVet who had come here to convalesce. Unfortunately he has decided to stop here, a bugger but given his ongoing pain in his legs understandable. He will bike to Twizel then Ohau so I’ll see him each of the next couple of days, as, no doubt he’ll streak past on his bike!!

The backpackers here in Tekapo is a very new YHA and frankly is better than some hotels I’ve stayed in. Magnificent, uninterrupted views across the lake and really nice facilities.

Japanese dinner, a change from the traditional pizza at the end of a section, interestingly on entering a largely empty restaurant that seated, I’d guess, over a hundred people we re asked if we had a reservation. Took all our self restraint not to collectively burst out laughing at this question.

Tekapo is rather sad as it is clearly structured for large tour groups (of I would guess predominantly Asian tourists) passing through on busses. Unfortunately this trade has gone with Covid and hence everything seems oversized for the few Kiwi’s here.

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