Days 1 and 2

Day 1 

Kaitaia to Cape Reinga to Twilight Beach (12km)

I’m not sure if I’m terrified or excited this morning as months of planning and preparation come to fruition.  Woke pretty early, probably due to the rain and wind accompanying the weather bomb that was forecast for today. Not helped by it being the first day of daylight saving so a pretty truncated night.

Marie and Hayley had so kindly offered to drive me up to Cape Reinga, we had driven from  Hamilton to Kaitaia on Saturday and this morning just needed to drive the 83km to Cape Reinga (as advised by Google Maps, more on this later).

The drive north was through torrential rain and driving winds, I was beginning to think perhaps I should have packed my Gortex coat rather than saving the weight with a lightweight one, too late now though.  Marie interrupted these thoughts asking IOC I had my over-trousers handy, I was forced to confess no over-trousers, shorts and wet legs!

Arriving at what Google advised was Cape Reinga we were greeted by a sign advising the Cape was actually a further 20km, not sure what was going on there but just hoping those isn’t an omen for my navigation over the next few months.

The obligatory lighthouse photo

Once we arrived at the Cape it was not entirely clear where you went, largely because of low cloud and torrential rain but eventually we ground our way to the lighthouse for the obligatory photo op.

From there I turned right and headed out towards the coast. So sad leashing Marie and Hayley knowing it’ll be a month or so before I see them but with the same time great to finally get underway on what I know will be a helluva challenge.

Looking back to ther lighthouse from the cliff top track

The first bit of track was along the cliff tops, would have been spectacular if it wasn’t for the rain. It then descended to Te Werahi Beach which gave me my first taste of beach walking.  At the end of this beach was a stream that needed wading across then a climb up a headland that looked like rock but was actually soft clay/mud.  My shoes picked up huge clumps of this forcing me to stop periodically and remove some of it both because it was so slippery and also very heavy.              

Eventually got to the top of the bluff and then across what was like a lunar landscape before dropping down onto Twighlight beach.   After about 3km along the beach climbed some stairs and here was the camp for night one!  So 12.5km down 2988km to go!!

I had the camp to myself and thought that might have been the case given the weather bomb but late in the afternoon three other TA hikers arrived, Robyn, Talia and Julie, seems this TA thing is more popular with women than men!?!

My little abode at Twilight Camp

In tent early only to be visited by the local mice, they were running over the mesh roof of the tent body underneath the fly, letting me play a game of “whack a mouse”.  Failed to get one and after ensuring they remained outside slept well in their company.

Day 2 - Twilight Beach to Maunganui Bluff Camp (28km)

This would be first longish day, about 28km with 24 of it along 90mile beach.

Day started inauspiciously when I burnt my porridge but decided I’d eat it anyway as to do anything else would be letting the others in the camp know I could cook it properly.  Tasted bloody awful but got the sustenance anyway.

The day started with a climb up through scrub (only half a Haka) but felt like more then a set of stairs down to Ninety Mile Beach.  Looking down on it was daunting as it stretched into the distance.

First view of Ninety Mile Beach

Rained as I got to the beach and I put jacket on and left on all day as despite the sun coming out the wind was terrible and very cold.

Staris down to the beach

Came across a group of four old folk hanging around a 4wd and when I got close one of them rushed out into the water with a bag of something.  Having seen Toheroa holes earlier I had my suspicions and enquired how the Toheroa gathering was going only to be told in no uncertain terms they were gathering Tuatua. First time I’ve seen Tuatua gathering using a spade and digging big holes!!

The beach with the tide out becomes a relatively busy road with a mix of local 4wds and the odd rental car! The rental companies must love getting the cars back all sandy and salty.

Periodically there would be a rogue wave and I’d be scuttling up the beach to get away from them.  

I’m running two for two on the wet feet stakes having again needed to wade across a few streams.  Seem the tales of wet feet every day of TA may week be true!

Arrived at Maunganui Bluff Camp ground at about 2.00pm and proceeded to pick what I felt was the prime spot for my tent.

My chosen tent site before I set it up but facing nicely SW

Julie the French girl left as her knee gave up and she was able to get a ride with a local family along the beach to Ahipara so now our cohort is down to three!

It was blowing (probably 40knots) from the NW but forecast to move south so set my tent for that, big mistake believing the forecast as the wind direction never changed!! Hence a very noisey night as the tent was buffeted side on to then wind.

Just after dark a new tent appeared, so a new couple have joined us (Susan and Ken).

Not a good nights sleep with the wind coming in the side of the tent but no mice and I was dry.